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Ram running rough, A techs only!!

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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #21  
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Did you happen to move the distributor at all? Have you checked your timing chain?

The distributor on these engines do not control.timing but instead control fuel sync. If you moved it any you could be injecting fuel at the wrong time, hence the soaked plugs. And when you checked the firing order what did you use for reference? I had a similar issue with my 95 and turned out that I didnt have the ignition rotor seated all the way down on the distributor shaft so I would check that as well.
 

Last edited by QuadCabLuv; Dec 15, 2012 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by QuadCabLuv
Did you happen to move the distributor at all? Have you checked your timing chain?

The distributor on these engines do not control.timing but instead control fuel sync. If you moved it any you could be injecting fuel at the wrong time, hence the soaked plugs. And when you checked the firing order what did you use for reference? I had a similar issue with my 95 and turned out that I didnt have the ignition rotor seated all the way down on the distributor shaft so I would check that as well.
The truck came to me running like this. I haven't moved the distributor but it doesn't mean it hasn't been moved. How can I correct it?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #23  
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You will need a high end scan tool to set fuel sync perfectly, but there is a process that will get it close enough to drive. It has been posted on here a couple of times. Try searching for fuel sync.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #24  
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It also sounda like it could have jumped timing, maybe about 90* out. I would check that first.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by QuadCabLuv
It also sounda like it could have jumped timing, maybe about 90* out. I would check that first.
If the timing was 90 degrees out the engine would be done because these are interference engines. To me it sounds like worn valve train parts as stated earlier. If the front 4 cylinders aren't getting enough air and too much fuel that would cause the spark plugs to be saturated with fuel. This would also lead to poor performance.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2012 | 04:58 PM
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Do a leakdown test and see where you're at.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by horatio102
Do a leakdown test and see where you're at.
he stated he has good compression in each cylinder so a leakdown test won't make any progress. I think your overlooking the mechanical parts of your engine.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2012 | 12:25 AM
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Compression and leakdown are two different things. You may have a good momentary compression while experiencing an unhealthy amount of leak.


Chryslers are funny. I had the fuel pump relay, oil sender, all 4 driver's side coils and injectors, and the three connectors going to the throttle body all unplugged on an 05 Durango 4.7 and cranked the thing over for a total of about 2 minutes, with no CEL afterward.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 11:01 PM
  #29  
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All right, sorry for the long wait but here's what was wrong with it!!! We were discussing what it could possibly be amongst 4 guys with a combined 50(!) years experience working on cars. We came up with a broken exhaust valve spring. With everything checked, double checked and triple checked, all the data we had written down and possible problems/causes we had come up with a broken intake valve spring would've shown up during the first compression check but an exhaust valve spring could possibly mask the results of that test to be good. We removed the even bank valve cover first(injector faults on 2 4 and 8) so by Murphy's law, all the springs are fine on that bank. Removed the other valve cover, BINGO!! A broken exhaust valve spring on cylinder number 1 ! ! ! Now it still confuses me why a broken #1 exhaust valve spring would throw a #8 injector fault but I'm guessing it was due to the firing order and the lack of knock sensors in this engine. Possibly the #8 cylinder was being flooded with the mixture that was meant for cylinder #1 but i think that's a stretch.

Thanks everyone for their help and input. I'm used to working on German cars and they have multiple sensors that would've pointed me towards this problem but I guess I'm "spoiled." I'll stick to the rough stuff, these "simple" american cars can be confusing at times.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 06:29 AM
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kill this post
 

Last edited by Tommy Francetic; Jan 6, 2013 at 06:32 AM.
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