Unless you have the equipment you wont be able to do it right.. Turning the dizzy on these trucks doesnt change timing. Like merc said its for fuel sync and can only be done with a expensive little toy that most dont have

 

And expensive means $15000... The dodge dealer would be happy to correct it for about $80.

 

Or any independent shop that has a decent scan tool....

 

Maybe I'll take it back to school with me after new years and see if they will let me play with the DRB3 again. They let me use it to play with my Cummins and enablt the factory cold high idle. Its not licensed so I can just drive on into the dealer and have them set it. Idk if the Ford dealer in my small town would have the equipment? They would give a guy a better deal then the big chain Dodge dealer I'd have to haul it to

has anyone ever done this that can explain exactly what the process involves, is there a readout on the scan tool that shows say a number for the sync, and you turn it until it lines up to the correct numbers?

 

Do a search here in DF called "fuel sync". You'll actually come across a link to a document answering your question.

Now go play around some more now.

 

I searched around for "fuel sync" came across 2 threads, this one and one where one posted mentioned that the fuel sync was upset and there was a process to get it drivable, but it wasn't posted there

I kept search for anything related to distributor adjustment and all had similar results, I mean mine is fairly close as I can drive it, it just spits and sputters sometimes. I'll keep working on wiring in these 02 sensors to eliminate them as the problem

Does the downstream sensor effect much? I only ask because I know guys running without cats on their trucks, I would assume to rich of mixture with throw the light, does it effect fuel mixture at all. One I know is a 98 360, but I'm not sure on the other one.

 

Downstream? There's some debate about that, but I say no, cause you can run a sim in it no problem. It's just to verify the cat is working fine.

 

Glad you actually pulled the search move here on DF for commonly discussed issue for YEARS. It's known that the search function on DF is not the greatest as it's dependent on keywords and combination, etc.

However, going straight to Google will give you something new for you.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=dodge+ram+fuel+sync


If you want to do this engine correctly, then put the downstream O2 in. I don't condone the fouler trick, but people report unchanged impact. Otherwise, feel free to continue hacking this thing up. Just sayin'.

Additionally....I didn't read the thread from the start...but yeah lots of redundant information here and not on TOPIC. It is your thread = disorganized.

 

Procedure for setting base sync is detailed in the service manual. Not sure where the download links are at the moment, seems the thread in the faq section is non-functional at the moment. There was another here in the tech section, might try digging up that one, and grabbing the right manual for your truck.

Rear O2 DOES have a small impact on mixture.... if the PCM thinks the cat isn't being efficient enough, it will richen the mixture a tad to try and get the cat hotter. (which would make it more efficient....) If you don't have a cat at all..... you may or may not get codes without the non-fouler. Some folks don't have any trouble with it, others aren't so lucky.

 

Thanks, I did come across a thread detailing how to set sync without a scanner. Obviously isn't going to be perfect but it should be decently close, I have a hanes paper manual for 94-01/02 Dodge Ram Trucks, and I bought an All Data subscription for this exact truck, although all data seemed rather worthless as far as info for the fuel sync, i haven't cracked the hanes open yet

Should have time off tomorrow to pull it into the shop and mess with it, idk the condition of the cat that is installed on here now. I pulled the entire exhaust of the donor truck at the manifolds and installed it on this one since it seemed in great shape and the black one has the exhaust all hacked up like I mentioned. I'll just hook both sensors up then we know we can eliminate them as problem causers (hopefully)