front ticking sound
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front ticking sound
Hello all, I decided to post this would like your opinion.
There is a front ticking sound coming from front driver side wheel in 2wd and in 4wd. The only difference is when I accelerate in 4wd it stops. Is this a u-joint or wheel bearing problem? Any input appreciated. Thanks.
There is a front ticking sound coming from front driver side wheel in 2wd and in 4wd. The only difference is when I accelerate in 4wd it stops. Is this a u-joint or wheel bearing problem? Any input appreciated. Thanks.
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2011
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Thanks Hey You I turned the wheels all the way and had a look at the u-joints. Looks ok on the pass. side but drivers side, it looks like the "inner bushing" is gone. Looks like metal on metal there and explains the ticking sound and little shaking. I read somewhere on here about a greasable u-joint? What do you think about buying a used shaft with u-joint intact or replace only the u-joint? Sounds like a pretty expensive job? I think I'll let the qualified ppl. look at it.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Just replace the u-joint. You can do it with basic hand tools (including a nice long breaker bar....) in an hour or so. (provided you have a warm, dry, place to work.....) Having a friend for moral support doesn't hurt either.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
below is you...
if your brakes are ok, leave the pads in the calipers and calipers on the bracket and just unbolt the caliper brackets from the steering knuckle. then - if the big axle nut will come off (1-11/16), and the bearing will come out of the knucke, then within about 10-15 minutes, you have the axles pulled and laying on the bench, then its just a U-joint change, which is not bad.
if the big nut won't come off, or the bearing won't come out of the knuckle, then it starts to suck pretty quick.
whether you do it or a shop - make SURE that when you reinsert the axle into the axle tube, be VERY VERY GENTLE on the axle seals, or you'll tear them and be doing it all over again only worse, only a lot worse.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
precision brand/moog 377 is greasable but you must have an adapter with the threads on one end and zerk on the other to grease them. only costs about $5 but its not real obvious. the info is in sheriff's u-joint thread.
at the end - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...984-uh-oh.html
if your brakes are ok, leave the pads in the calipers and calipers on the bracket and just unbolt the caliper brackets from the steering knuckle. then - if the big axle nut will come off (1-11/16), and the bearing will come out of the knucke, then within about 10-15 minutes, you have the axles pulled and laying on the bench, then its just a U-joint change, which is not bad.
if the big nut won't come off, or the bearing won't come out of the knuckle, then it starts to suck pretty quick.
whether you do it or a shop - make SURE that when you reinsert the axle into the axle tube, be VERY VERY GENTLE on the axle seals, or you'll tear them and be doing it all over again only worse, only a lot worse.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
precision brand/moog 377 is greasable but you must have an adapter with the threads on one end and zerk on the other to grease them. only costs about $5 but its not real obvious. the info is in sheriff's u-joint thread.
at the end - https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...984-uh-oh.html
Last edited by dhvaughan; Jan 11, 2013 at 08:04 PM.