I would let it warm up to where is stalls out. Turn key off, then start and try again, shifting manually. If it is all good, turn off and plug it back up, and give ity another shot. If it stalls then then there is a wiring issue to TCC I would think.

 

everytime it stalls out, i have to keep starting it and trying again till i get backed out the driveway. now if i shift fast and goose the gas at the same time i get rolling enough to throw it in "N" before it stalls and get myself out the driveway.

im wondering if it may be my crank sensor. ive read a few post on here nd thru google and some ppl pointed to that... but the thing is, everytime someone gets a few options they disappear before posting the fix..

idk, ill get her figured out. think ill be ripping the keg off and do the gaskets. well after i do the thermostat and W.pump 2morrow most likely.

 

Do the thermostat when you pull the intake off....much easier to clean the gasket mating surface & water tube and its less work. Also plan on getting a new $5-6 bypass coolant hose from intake to water pump, they like to rot like no other hose I've ever seen on a vehicle and generally are not reusable.

A tip that will save you a bunch of time if you weren't removing the water pump is to NOT REMOVE THE METAL BYPASS TUBE THAT GOES TO HEATER CORE LINE of the water pump! Leave it in place and remove the bolt from the bracket, do not pry on that tube/bracket at all or you'll be replacing it or have sealing issues and lose time dealing with crap that you don't need to. But since you're putting a new pump in, buy a new metal bypass tube for like $6-8, permatex the bottom o-ring then make sure it seats all the way down into the pump about a half inch (if memory is correct) or it will leak everything out, it should feel sturdy enough before you bolt it down, if it feels like it would leak it probably will. I had a issue with my first one I ever worked on where the broken bottom of a previous bypass tube was still stuck in the pump and I didn't know that the new tube was supposed to go as deep as it did.

Another fast tip, take the AC pump off but leave the lines connected and let it rest on the passengers side of the engine bay without damaging the lines,leave the alternator on the bracket this makes the bracket much lighter without the ac pump and you save your refrigerant from leaking. Then take the bolts out of the aluminum alternator/ac bracket and pull straight up.

 

where were you 2 weeks ago when i did all that on my dads 2500 when we did his water pump lol... thank you very much thho for taking the time to type all that out, much appreciated..

well, tore the front off the truck last night to do the thermostat and W.P... i noticed the W.P. on it was stamped Mopar, so i started unbolting it to swap it out since the truck has 134k on it and i saw the stamped Mopar and thought original. so got it out and examined it, no bearing noise, spun freely, and was clean inside to say the least. so im guessing the original was swapped out w/a OE W.P. not all that long ago.. so i cleaned up the surfaces and stuck it back on.. got a new 195 thermostat in, new bypass hose, new upper and lower hoses and clamps and called it a day. let it sit over night to cure and filled her back up this morning. now i have gurgglin' in the heater core, so i plan on burping her tomorrow while up on ramps to get all the air out.. DAMN that heat is hotttttt. no more freezing on cold days.

anyway i took it for a ride after i filled the Rad and let the T-stat open to get air out, when i got back home i noticed Rad problems (dare i say), anyway the video explains it, my post is long enough.... Oh, no stalling in reverse at all today, wasnt as cold today so not sure if that played a roll. i am going to get a new upstream o2 tomorrow and save it for the next time it stalls in reverse and see if that cures it.

http://s577.beta.photobucket.com/use...38217.mp4.html

 

WTF is up w/that video lol.. i just went to watch it and it sounded like it was in fast forward mode.. it was taken and uploaded on my Razr Maxx so it might have messed up while uploading. if it is like that for everyone else ill try uploading it again and see if it fixes it.

 

Not a problem haha. I've done my share of working on these and live them to an extent, to the point of being an insomniac about them.

From watching the video you're not filled up all the way lol The cure is more antifreeze! thats why you have that heater core gurgling noise and top radiator hose is cold. Take the radiator cap off when engine is cold (so you don't get splashed with hot coolant), then start the truck up and let it warm up slowly, keep adding antifreeze until it warms up to 195 f/operating temp and then once it sits a minute or two the thermostat should have dropped the coolant level, top it off, slightly open the throttle up just a few hundred rpms for a few seconds then check level again if good fill the overflow container up half way and put cap back on.

That should purge the system properly & fill it with all of its needed coolant, without waiting on the overflow to do its job. & Thanks for reminding me, I should get some antifreeze for tomorrow, its going to be cold in Wausau! lol.

 

i love working on, well should i say in the ram haha. loving the room instead of on my explorers and the cramped bays.

i topped it off after the video (wasnt but 1/2" below the drop off of the neck.) so it wasnt that low. ill check it in the morning and try what you posted above. i think im going to invest in a Lisle's spill free funnel thing. saw it on here and youtube and they seem like something handy to have on the shelf.

and the upper Rad hose was hot (not sculding, just hot), the lower was not, neither was the cap or the passenger side 1/2 of the Rad. the driver side 1/2 of the Rad was hot tho.

did that video play fine for you or was it in like fast forward mode for you too? just wondering if i should try uploding it again.

 

It was kind of like fast forward mode but I could still understand it

 

ok thanks, ill try uploading it again.

well its been 3 days since it has stalled in reverse. and it was only 12degrees today, so i was expecting it to stall. i will keep monitoring it for the next week since its supposed to be pretty cold.

now ive mentioned before about my rough idle at times and sounding like it wants to stall but it fights to idle. well even after the new IAC, TPS, cleaned TB w/gasket, and air box gasket i went ahead and got a NTK upstream o2 and have had some drive time w/it involving many startings and idle time and not once have i had a rough idle. i will also be monitoring this as well but i think i found the fix to my rough idle.

just wanted to update. ill get that vid up sometime tonight.

 

Sounds good hope it stays that way!.

Theres not been many threads I've cared to follow to this extent but its drawn me in lol

I have a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner I run with my mini laptop that works great for monitoring the trucks running conditions while you drive. Monitors the O2 sensor voltages as you drive on the fly instantly, love it a lot!.