Spoke too soon. I tightened the pan up to 25 ftpounds and it leaked. I tightened some more we will see, manual says 17 ft pounds. LOL!
no issues with the speedometer. I thought the sensor in the diff only had to do with the ABS system. I am talking about the VSS.

HEYYOU: looks like the manual recommends a 5/16 while others use a T40 socket. I have both.

 

next step band adjustment and tv cable adjustment. I have read the manual on the TV cable adjustment and just cant comprehend it

 

Overtightening the pan bolts, expecially if it is not done in a crossover pattern, causes distortion in pan....and leakage.

 

theres alot of debate on that. If the fluid that is in there looks clean and theres not a substantial amount of debris or metal and your pulling the whole valve body off, then i would say yes do it. But i would spend alot of time in there with some carb cleaner first and some compressed air so you can get and chunks of anything out before you flush them into the system deeper.

edit: this was in refrence to the question about doing a full flush or just a fluid change. I didnt realize theis thread went on further lol.

 

thanks quadcabluv; I was actually pleasantly suprised how clean it was.

Wassup GDstock; I did tighten in cross pattern and worked my way up to the torque. The mating surface looked square and I cleaned the heck out of it. I think it waas simply thermal expansion and contraction. Seems ok now, but I will check it again tomorrow.

 

checked the tv cable adjustment - it looked good with good movement at the trans also. Guess its going into the shop.
might as well have them add the remote filter and trans cooler

 

took the truck in and it ended up being a 2 minute fix to the tv cable. Had them do a tune up, glad I didnt do it, (mechanic said it was a nightmare) and was going to have them do the exhaust manifold, but he fears he will break the bolts and we will be into some head work - sucks!

 

Glad it was as easy as the TV cable adjustment. This is often overlooked or underestimated as a cause.

There isn't much to a tune up so to speak. If someone says otherwise, they do not know enough about these engines. Change plugs, rotor and cap. You do not have points, and do not adjust timing.

Is the exhaust manifold leaking? At the heads, or at the connector?

 

the bolt head on the bottom of the manifold near the cab, under the brake booster, rotted away and it is now loud. Not exscrutiating loud, but I bought all new studs from the dealer and a new manifold for that side intendidng to do it myself, but I figured why not have the mechanic do it while in the shop. I trust him and he has 16 years in the same location as a master mechanic. He explained and I quote "with 250k and it being a rust bucket I would be prepared for broke studs in which I will have to pull the heads to repair." of course on the positive side it may go well, I just wanted you to be prepared for the worse. SO I passed on it.

 

Gees. That area has so little room to work in. Not sure if pulling the head wouldn't be the fastest and least expensive way to fix it.