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Loud sucking sound bad miss then dies

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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #21  
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Erm.... why? The pre-cat O2 is far more important than the post cat. Is your cat still intact? or is it hollow?

Need that front O2 sensor in there for the truck to run right.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 04:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Erm.... why? The pre-cat O2 is far more important than the post cat. Is your cat still intact? or is it hollow?

Need that front O2 sensor in there for the truck to run right.
And a good working non oil fouled O2 Sensor at that!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #23  
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think i am just gonna keep running with them both unplugged runs alot better hope it wont do any damage
there is no way to tell which is post and pre cat because someone put duel exhaust on with no cats at all does anyone offer a o2 sensor to work in this application
i havnt had any of the problems i had with them plugged in
and thanks again for the help this is a awsome site
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DODGERAM99
I am from ohio also.. I have a 96 2wd ram 1500 360engine. I dont run a pre-cat o2 just the after-cat o2.

WTF?



Originally Posted by ff743
think i am just gonna keep running with them both unplugged runs alot better hope it wont do any damage
there is no way to tell which is post and pre cat because someone put duel exhaust on with no cats at all does anyone offer a o2 sensor to work in this application
i havnt had any of the problems i had with them plugged in
and thanks again for the help this is a awsome site
You have one problem that you are not seeing. Unplugging the connector on the pre cat O2 makes the engine run rich. And there is a way to tell....Plug one in and leave theother unplugged. WEhen it sets a cod, the one unplugged is the one.

It will work better to replace them.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:10 PM
  #25  
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ok but my next duestion is will it matter since there is one in each side almost in the exact same location dont mean to sound stupid here but you all know what i mean when i say dont wanna buy two if one will fix it
you would think there would be sensors out there for duels but i will try the unplugging trick and see if i can get the correct one thanks again
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:16 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ff743
ok but my next duestion is will it matter since there is one in each side almost in the exact same location dont mean to sound stupid here but you all know what i mean when i say dont wanna buy two if one will fix it
you would think there would be sensors out there for duels but i will try the unplugging trick and see if i can get the correct one thanks again

The original design is for one (pre cat) to be upstream of cat. THis one sends infor to PCM to determine a/f mixture. The other one is to monitor whether cat is functioning properly. There is no way for any of us to know whichone is which, but already told you how to determine.

If the downstream O2 reading is too close to updtream reading, it will set a code. Possibly the anti fouler thing may correct that.

First thing - find out which one is the pre cat sensor on your truck.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2020 | 03:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ff743
I have a 1997 dodge ram 2500 4x4 360 that runs fine when cold after it warms up it gets a loud sucking sound then dies. Start it back up runs fine fo a couple mins then does it again .no trouble codes. We had a cold snap here in ohio for several days and it ran fine and now that it warmimg up it does this runs fine as long as its on the floor but misses and pops through throttle body when trying to maintain a stedy speed
Any ideas

I had the same problem. After reading some other forums I found that unplugging my upstream o2 sensor stopped my truck from doing this. Truck gets bad gas mileage with upplugged and gives a check engine light but at least no crazy surge of air sucking and engine about to die. Waiting on upstream o2 sensor now. I also read to go with NTK sensor because it’s OEM. Hope this helps someone.

 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 07:41 PM
  #28  
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*Cough cough* 2013 check post dates
 
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