Battery Alt or Starter?
#1
Battery Alt or Starter?
I have an 01 Ram 1500 5.9. The battery appeared to be not holding a charge. I had it replaced approx 2 months ago. It was starting fine for awhile but now back to same symptoms.
Turn key get an attempt to crank. Other times it will give you a partial crank. Put a batt charger on it or jump it and it will start but only lasts about a day. Took it to O'Reilly and they put a tester on it. They said Batt is fine, Alt is fine, did load test on batt and a couple times during the test there was a single tick sound and the tester lost connection and had to be reset. Redid all connections and next morning same thing. Had to jump. This time they test and say all is well. Even did starter test and said it was fine. The truck started that time. I havent been able to duplicate the partial crank or no crank at all when they had the tester on it.
Ideas?
Turn key get an attempt to crank. Other times it will give you a partial crank. Put a batt charger on it or jump it and it will start but only lasts about a day. Took it to O'Reilly and they put a tester on it. They said Batt is fine, Alt is fine, did load test on batt and a couple times during the test there was a single tick sound and the tester lost connection and had to be reset. Redid all connections and next morning same thing. Had to jump. This time they test and say all is well. Even did starter test and said it was fine. The truck started that time. I havent been able to duplicate the partial crank or no crank at all when they had the tester on it.
Ideas?
#2
I've just recently had the same sort of thing happen, but it is a random event.
Hit the key and nothing... try again and it's fine... sometimes a partial crank and then dead... sometimes a couple attempts in a row and then fine.
It always cranks hard when it's working... never had to jump it.
It happened again this evening... I happened to have the lights 'on' when tried the key... the lights didn't dim, so I'm now suspicious of it being the clutch interlock switch.
Hit the key and nothing... try again and it's fine... sometimes a partial crank and then dead... sometimes a couple attempts in a row and then fine.
It always cranks hard when it's working... never had to jump it.
It happened again this evening... I happened to have the lights 'on' when tried the key... the lights didn't dim, so I'm now suspicious of it being the clutch interlock switch.
#4
Do a parasitic draw test, this should help: http://www.flashoffroad.com/electric...teryDrain.html
Take a quick look at the light in the glove box to make sure it isn't staying on all the time.
Take a quick look at the light in the glove box to make sure it isn't staying on all the time.
#5
Had the same issue before as you guys. Replaced my battery, same stuff happened..Never replaced the alternator because I knew that was working after testing. Only part left was the starter. I replaced the starter and for the past few weeks its been perfect. Haven't had a single issue with it since. Before replacement of the starter, it pulled about 450-500 amps on startup, after replacement, if I remember right, about ~250 amps.
#6
You could pull neg cable off battery at night , then reattach in the morning to help rule out parasitic draw. If it starts fine then, something is draining battery, assuming it's good. Are you getting 14plus volts across battery terminals when engine running? I've had new batteries go bad within a month or so, albeit rare. How clean are battery posts and connections?
Last edited by ReadRam; 02-16-2013 at 04:20 AM.
#7
+1 check that you have about 14 volts on battery when engine is running. this generally proves that alternator is working.
also +1 on disconnecting battery when not in use to see if it eliminates the problem. security systems, remote starts, audio equipment, bad light switches are notorious for killing the battery.
a cheap disconnect like this makes it easy to connect/disconnect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ba...341194&vxp=mtr
also +1 on disconnecting battery when not in use to see if it eliminates the problem. security systems, remote starts, audio equipment, bad light switches are notorious for killing the battery.
a cheap disconnect like this makes it easy to connect/disconnect.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Ba...341194&vxp=mtr
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#8
This morning it started, I have 14.2 with engine running and 12.65 ignition off.
Checked the glove box light Yup!! its on hahaha. It doesnt appear to be on when closed but will remove the bulb anyway.
I redid connections already. O'Reilly said that I was drawing around 170 amps on starter test.
Will do the parasitic testing today.
Thanks all!
Checked the glove box light Yup!! its on hahaha. It doesnt appear to be on when closed but will remove the bulb anyway.
I redid connections already. O'Reilly said that I was drawing around 170 amps on starter test.
Will do the parasitic testing today.
Thanks all!