thought i would give an update. I kept driving it through the sqeel until it eventually stopped wanting to shift and limped it back home. Taking out a manual transmission in your driveway with no air tools and no lift is a pain in the butt. As high off the ground as you can get it is important, get some concrete blocks and stack them back and forth to get extra height. I was able to modify my floor jack with plywood to make a transmission jack. Also, no bolts were onthere so hard as a rachet and a breaker bar couldnt handle it.

Once the transmission was off, it was obvious that the throw out/release bearing had gernaded and sliced all the fingers off the pressure plate in short order. The clutch plate had a little bit left in it but not much, original clutch at 150k. Picked up the clutch kit for ~$200 and a master/slave cylinder for ~$100, a vat of bearing grease came in handy because the kits tiny packet is tiny, also got some gear oil for the transmission which was getting low.

Out the 15 some odd bolts into the transmission, they are all different sizes and shapes, so making a numbered diagram and labeling in ziplocks was key. Followed some of the best practices mentioned in the videos by perfectionclutch on ytube. Had a hang up trying to get the pilot bearing out. Grease trick was a no go, bread trick (cant believe i tried it) was a no go, so i rented a blind hole puller set for a refundable deposit and it took 30 seconds to remove. The fly wheel was fine so i just cleaned it.

A note on the clutch master and slave cylinder replacement. There are numberous posts on here saying you have to get the special mopar fully assembled and bleed clutch hydraulic system. In short, no you don't. Just attach the new master and slave from the autoparts store (dont really need a bleeder either) to the high pressure hoses. Before you attach them to the firewall and transmission just zip tie the resevior to the hood with the free hanging master below it, make sure master is pointing down because i WILL hold a large air bubble and not pressurize, make sure there are no loops in line and resevior is highest followed by master and slave at ground. Now remove the retaining strap on slave and get a buddy to watch fluid level and add as necessary, and tell you about air bubbles. Just make sure you dont pump the master without the slave being attached to transmission or it could mess up slave. After pumping the slave for a while the air bubbles quickly go up and out resevior. Al those other methods with vacuums and pressure and bleed valves dont work because bubbles want to go up not down.