Searched forums and found suggestions to check hydraulics, so I did and nothing.... so here's a new post.

Clutch squeals, LOUD. Manual transmission shifts fine, no grinding gears, when in gear it stays in gear. The clutch pedal still has pressure so I doubt its the hydraulics, the clutch reservoir is full and fluid is clean. The point where clutch pedal just starts to disengage is the same; However, the point at which the clutch is FULLY disengaged is now a LOT lower than usual, probably less than halfway to floor. The "play" is a much shorter distance now. Again, it is loud, like a squeal, the squeal comes and goes sometimes, sometimes it is constant, but changes anytime I press clutch pedal in. Is it a bearing? or do I need to drop hundreds on a new clutch.

Also, maybe not related, but I noticed that the oil pressure gauge in dash changes depending on whether it is in gear or not. If in gear it is well above the "40", if in neutral it is well below "40" but still in the gauges printed normal range. The change happens over about 2 seconds.

Thanks! I really got a lot of help with changing out my water pump from here a ways back!

 

Have you checked the throwout bearing, by chance?

 

the noise sounds like throwout bearing. i'm not sure about your lower than normal pedal.

if the squealing changes pitch some as you engage/disengage clutch pressure, i'd say definitely throwout.

how many miles on that clutch and throwout?

oil pressure fluctuating a little above/below 40 based on engine rpm is normal.

 

The pitch does fluctuate a little especially as I am using the clutch. If I have it stopped and out of gear and just work the clutch the sound changes. So I will look up how to check and/or replace the throw out bearing. Any pointers or suggestions for this particular truck (V6 manual, 2000 dodge ram)?

 

Gotta drop the trans.

 

tip - i assume your V6 has the same crankshaft position sensor as the V8's. its in the bell housing on passenger side - and its in harms way for transmission R&R. unbolt it and remove it, or be very careful not to smash it or pinch the wires when shaking it loose or manhandling it back in.

tip#2 - when trans is out, inspect and consider replacing the freeze plugs on the back of the engine block. oreilly's has the whole kit (steel or brass) or you can just buy several 1-5/8 and a couple 1-1/4.

mine were fine, but i replaced the one's on the back of the block anyway. the one's on the back of the heads had no room to swing a hammer, so i left them be.

note crank position sensor at the 1:30 position. see how vulnerable it is.

 

Thanks for the tips!

is this doable with a floor jack and 2 stand, no air tools?

 

Air tools make it easier, but, aren't required.

Getting the trans down will be the hardest part.... it ain't exactly 'light'. Creative use of a board, and the jack, will certainly help though.

 

If your going in that far change the clutch, get the flywheel surfaced, install a new pilot bearing. In the pix posted; At the top of the motor there is a single welch plug don't touch it, it's not a freeze plug.

 

^ +1 the discolored plug at 12 o'clock is the end of the cam !!! don't touch it.

i'm no Superman, and i wouldn't try this without either a transmission jack, or a means to securely strap the trans to a floor jack in a manner that it cannot roll off. caution - its long and most likely very unbalanced when you start trying to shake, wiggle, push, pull

anyone know what a manual trans for out truck weighs? i don't, but i know the automatic is heavy as hell.

i have seen jack tops that fit into a standard floor jack, and which have a platform or straps. i've never used one, but will look for a pic.


Transmission Jack
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html


Jack Adapter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION...463ce9&vxp=mtr