4wd light flickering when not in 4x4
#1
#3
either a vacuum leak on the cad, losing vac on the 2wd line which allows the shift fork (and collar) to flop around and contact the light switch...
or malfunctioning light switch on the end of the cad. remove connector and clean out the mud and snow and salt.
...my daughter lives in Iowa....
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm
or malfunctioning light switch on the end of the cad. remove connector and clean out the mud and snow and salt.
...my daughter lives in Iowa....
http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4/4x4_engagment.htm
#4
#6
#7
world keeps getting smaller. my daughter-in-law's grandfather grew up in Winterset. They went back there to visit last summer.
the CAD is a pain in the butt, but fairly simple.
first- make sure you have strong vac in one line in 2wd and strong vac on the other when in 4wd. if so, continue. if not, stop and fix that.
soak the 4 little cad bolts liberally with penetrating oil to try and prevent them from breaking. if i remember right, the cad might sort of rotate up on top.
remove the electrical connector from the end of the cad and test it. if you short the 2 pins it should illuminate the 4wd light in the dash.
remove the contract switch from the end of the cad and test that. when the ball is depressed by the shift fork it should turn on the light. when not pressed, the ball should spring open to turn the light off.
if all that's ok, its time to remove the cad and test it with a vacuum source. the internal shaft likes to rust up and stick.
the CAD is a pain in the butt, but fairly simple.
first- make sure you have strong vac in one line in 2wd and strong vac on the other when in 4wd. if so, continue. if not, stop and fix that.
soak the 4 little cad bolts liberally with penetrating oil to try and prevent them from breaking. if i remember right, the cad might sort of rotate up on top.
remove the electrical connector from the end of the cad and test it. if you short the 2 pins it should illuminate the 4wd light in the dash.
remove the contract switch from the end of the cad and test that. when the ball is depressed by the shift fork it should turn on the light. when not pressed, the ball should spring open to turn the light off.
if all that's ok, its time to remove the cad and test it with a vacuum source. the internal shaft likes to rust up and stick.
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#8
Wow it is a small world, especially since Winterset is a pretty small town at around 5,000 people I think.
Thanks for your help with this. I finally found the problem last night. One of the hard vacuum lines had a small crack in it right before the connection above the transmission. It must have been pretty small but after pulling on it so many times I saw it and cut the bad part out. Now it works like new.
Oh, and sorry for all the spelling and word mistakes. After re-reading I see I had a few. My dumb phone automatically fills in a word if it doesn't recognize what I type in and I didn't pay enough attention to what was filling in.
Thanks for your help with this. I finally found the problem last night. One of the hard vacuum lines had a small crack in it right before the connection above the transmission. It must have been pretty small but after pulling on it so many times I saw it and cut the bad part out. Now it works like new.
Oh, and sorry for all the spelling and word mistakes. After re-reading I see I had a few. My dumb phone automatically fills in a word if it doesn't recognize what I type in and I didn't pay enough attention to what was filling in.