lmao!!!

 

hey, i only went with what i knew lol. they only help with supporting mods... like most other aftermarket parts.

 

Intakes like the m1 just shift the powerband up in rpms, at the cost of torque where you need it more. if you want more power at 3,000+ rpms they will help but it will cost you that power at normal street speeds and off the line...(this is the same reason that chevy long TPI runners made the engines so torquey and fun to drive in vettes and camaros.... just like single and dual plane manifold differences in carbed engines.... The dual plane is more fun at leagal speeds and has more torque where you normally see it and the single plane (M1) is more for WOT at the track when your over 5,000rpm..... honestly its not worth it unless your building a racing truck but others here will try to convince you thats not the case.... same thing happens in the carbed engine world..... but the take a look at what the pros use on mainly street driven v8's.... edelbrock performer RPM's.... dual plane NOT the open single plan M1 style intakes. Again those are for WOT drag strips.

The torque is what you feel not the horsepower remember that...

If you want to impress the kids at school go for it but you will lose low end torque and will have to make other improvements to help mask that loss so you see the "improvement" ...most people do all of these improvements at once so they doint realise what kind of torque they really lost over just leaving the stock intake in with the other improvements.

 

I think ill be fine with doing the intake. The flow rate for is pretty good and a good bit better then the M1

 

I read the FI Airgap also looses some bottom end.
Is this just at low rpm (say under 1200), or is it higher before the get up and go kicks in?

I also read that the Cloyes 3 key timing set allows you to advance/retard the cam timing ±2° to shift where the torque is... would this be enough to offest the intake?

 

hughes is very slight off factory 1200 to 1700. by 2400 it takes over with more torque and hp. for daily use on the street or towing go with the hughes. i love towing and leaving the line half throttle and pulling away from others. bottom end is where you mostly drive(cruising) unless, racing high rpms(m1). the hughes does quite well as for more power on top end. just under where the m1 would put up power numbers. as for adjusting timing negative on that adjustments in all that i have seen, don't do it! leave it right at 0. cant find the posts on the adjustable like that. it was the consensus from zman and heyyou to not play with it. those two are quite knowledgeable.

 

I've got a 5 speed manual, and most of my driving is in the 1200 to 2000 rpm range... it's only when I need to dive into a spot that I give it some squirt and go higher in the rpm range, and then 3500 is about it.

With the FI Airgap, I plan using a 52mm TB, 1.7HS, Gibson shorties, 4 port injectors, and SCT... I'm putting together an E-fan kit now, and collecting other parts to be done with the manifold, like water pump, 180° thermostat, timing chain, sensors, plugs, wires, etc.
When I do the headers, I'll replace the cat and O2 (again), and drop in a magnaflow muffler.

The ultimate goal is not more top end speed (I'm happy with 90+mph it does now), but to have more mid range acceleration... so I guess I need the torque to be in the 1500rpm and up range???

 

So with doing the FI airgap do i still need to do the plenum gasket?

 

only if you want to waste a hundred bucks on a useless part.

 

Thats what i thought.