Whenever I turn either direction I can hear a crunching, popping, snapping sound out of the front left side. It sounds if you were to run over a can filled with rocks. Im hoping its a wheel bearing. How hard is it to replace the wheel bearings on these? oh yea its a 2001 ram 1500 4x4.

 

to test for wheel bearing, grab the top of the tire at 12 oclock and push/pull in and out with all your might. if the wheel moves on the axle/spindle/stub shaft, it might be bearing. double check that its not top ball joint.

to test axle u-joint, grab the u-joint on the inside half and rotate it back and forth against the outside. should be zero movement.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html

 

I wish I could but Im living an hour away from my garage where my jack and stands are. I need my truck to get back and forth to class everyday, but dont want to drive around on a bad bearing. If I drive it home and confirm it is wheel bearing, can the drivers side be replaced easily and a reasonable amount of time, like in a few hours? Ive searched and some people pull the axle shaft out and some leave it in. should I get hub assembly from advanced or autozone?

 

most likely both, hub and u joint.. depending on when last service was, if ever..

I just ripped mine apart tonight actually. didn't take long and mine were so frig'n rusted and froze together. a cold chisel and a BFH took care of that. total time for stripping both sides was about 2 1/2 hrs. but like I said, mine were Bad. I have yet to try and beat my u joints out of the axle's, I think i'll let a shop press them rusty things out.

and forget about those places. if you have 2 days to wait on them, I just got both front hubs shipped for $109.95 from 1Aauto.com. they have a 2 yr warranty. I am personally a Timken believer, but to be honest I have never had a problem with the 1Aauto hubs, and I have bought hubs for 4 trucks from them.


2 caliper bolts, 1 axle nut, 3 hub bolts and beat old one out.... if you do the u joints too, then repeat <<those steps, grab axle and pull straight out. place catch pan to catch fluid that will run out. and be very careful on sliding them back in otherwise the job could turn into a PITA to replace the seals as I have read. if you only replace the hub, no need to pull the axle out.

anywho, hope that helps a tad.

 

thanks,
I will check both the u-joint and hub assembly in the morning. The u-joints and balljoints were replaced about 25k miles ago. new brakes about 4 months ago.
My steering stabilizer has been leaking for the last 6 months and im pretty sure its dry so its doing no good. would this cause issues to the bearings? I was holding off until replacing it until I got a lift kit, because I could not feel a difference in handling with it empty

 

That should not effect hub bearings.

 

if the problem is in the bearings, don't drive it the hour back to your garage. you might not make it.

if the problem is in the u-joints, and its loose enough to make a lot of noise, i'd be hesitant to drive it an hour. if it comes apart, it can do a LOT more damage including destroying the axle beyond repair and other stuff including brake lines, brake parts, etc.

this might apply - if its u-joints and you can't change them, you can remove the axle, disassemble and remove the u-joints, plug the axle tube, reinstall the outer stub shaft into the steering knuckle/bearing and drive it as a 2wd for as long as you wish. you can either hammer the u-joint out with hammer and socket, or rent/borrow a ball joint press.

autozone has the timken bearings. autozone and advance are about the most expensive places to buy them at around $175 each. rockauto is cheapest at about $140 plus shipping. i bought a couple of precision brand and BCA brand from Amazon recently for about $95 each. they've been fine.

 

if you are away from home and without jack, stands, and tools, i doubt you'll ever get the big spindle nut off. requires a 1-11/16 socket. its torqued at about 150# on a 1500 and 200# on a 2500. it take a pretty good impact wrench or very stout breaker bar to remove it

that spindle nut has to come off to remove the bearing. and you have to remove the bearing to remove the axle. and you have to remove the axle to replace the u-joint.

where are you?

 

dhvaughan,
thanks for all the information, will be helpful for me in the future, and other people who read this in my situation. i jacked the truck up this morning by the axle using the pos jack that came with the truck after cranking it for a half hour. I got the tire off the ground and tried wiggling it everywhere. Solid. no play in the tire. checkd the u-joint and it is loose. theres about 1/16-1/8" play. The noise is also a popping, snapping sound when turning. I would love to do this myself, but Like you said, it was making a bad sound and I didnt want to drive it an hour home. so Im having a shop do it unfortunatly.

So now the question is, what u-joints to use? greasable or sealed for axle? I heard sealed are stronger.

 

I just ordered Moog super-strength greaseable part #377. got mine from rockauto .com $40 for both shipped. advance wanted $27 each.

but if a shop is doing it for you then tell them you want good Moog joints in there. I prefer greaseable.