wheel bearing or U-joint?
#11
04-07-2013, 07:06 PM
i used the 377 greasable. note that you need a grease adapter to put in grease, as the low clearance doesn't allow a zerk to be installed. that info and pics are in sheriff's ujoint thread.
the shop is going to charge an arm and a leg. don't let them put low quality joints in. the standard greasable joints are slightly weaker than the standard non-greasable due to the hollow core. but - the 377 super strengths are some impressive joints, and are not going to break under your normal (non rock crawler) conditions. i think you'd break an axle before you break one of those u-joints.
you can also get the 377 from advanceauto.com with discount codes and pick up at store and come close to rockauto pricing.
coldsteel - if your ujoint play is slight (1/16-1/8) - AND if you avoid tight turns AND if you take it easy, the odds are very very good that you can drive it an hour home to your shop.
if wouldn't drive it with a bad bearing but i'd ease it home with a ujoint....
the shop is going to charge an arm and a leg. don't let them put low quality joints in. the standard greasable joints are slightly weaker than the standard non-greasable due to the hollow core. but - the 377 super strengths are some impressive joints, and are not going to break under your normal (non rock crawler) conditions. i think you'd break an axle before you break one of those u-joints.
you can also get the 377 from advanceauto.com with discount codes and pick up at store and come close to rockauto pricing.
coldsteel - if your ujoint play is slight (1/16-1/8) - AND if you avoid tight turns AND if you take it easy, the odds are very very good that you can drive it an hour home to your shop.
if wouldn't drive it with a bad bearing but i'd ease it home with a ujoint....
#12
04-08-2013, 08:27 PM
well I got a new u-joint put in for 176$. not too bad i guess. I would of much rather of done it myself...i hate paying other people fix or mess up my truck! the 12 point bolts for the hub assembly are pretty rounded after the guy tortured them and the axle nut with an impact. should be fun for me in the future
how would I go about getting the hub aff if those bolt heads are stripped. never really had to mess with something like that before, just so i am prepared when that wheel bearing blows. but the good news is that the nasty noise is gone and is smooth now.
how would I go about getting the hub aff if those bolt heads are stripped. never really had to mess with something like that before, just so i am prepared when that wheel bearing blows. but the good news is that the nasty noise is gone and is smooth now.
#13
04-08-2013, 08:38 PM
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well I got a new u-joint put in for 176$. not too bad i guess. I would of much rather of done it myself...i hate paying other people fix or mess up my truck! the 12 point bolts for the hub assembly are pretty rounded after the guy tortured them and the axle nut with an impact. should be fun for me in the future how would I go about getting the hub aff if those bolt heads are stripped. never really had to mess with something like that before, just so i am prepared when that wheel bearing blows. but the good news is that the nasty noise is gone and is smooth now.
how would I go about getting the hub aff if those bolt heads are stripped. never really had to mess with something like that before, just so i am prepared when that wheel bearing blows. but the good news is that the nasty noise is gone and is smooth now.
#14
04-08-2013, 11:16 PM
If I were you I would confront the mechanic or if there is one go to the shop foreman with the rounded off bolt problem, that is unacceptable & ham fisted to boot. When you pay hard earned money to someone to fix a problem it should be done with competence to say the least.
+1. Not to mention that jacking things up, they compromise your safety. They owe you the "We F'd it up discount" = new replacement parts!
If a shop even scratches up or distorts the chrome caps on my lug nuts, they replace them. Monkeys with impacts scare me....