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Rebuild Magnum 360 Motor

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  #11  
Old 04-16-2013 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 1997JollyGreenGiant
Ok, i'll try destroying the starter today. it has a crack in it anyway.
A BFH and safety glasses and I bet it will behave for you. Good luck and keep us posted. Pix would be nice as we are pix ****** here and it helps others that are doing this work.
 
  #12  
Old 04-16-2013 | 12:37 PM
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Isn't there one bolt from the back side?

If you pull tranny with engine, you'll have more room to work on getting it off, and more leverage...
 

Last edited by gdstock; 04-16-2013 at 12:39 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-16-2013 | 12:41 PM
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^^^ Nope they are all put in from one side, but the top one/stud can be a real pita.
 
  #14  
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:08 PM
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Ok, I got the motor out! I applied heat to the starter, and that didn't help. I ended up using an angle grinder to cut away at the metal on the starter (while being very careful not to cut the bellhousing, the starter was all corroded and the housing on it was cracked anyway). After cutting some of the metal away, I beat it with a 24oz roofing hammer and that did the trick. Got the starter off, unbolted the flywheel from the torque converter and pulled the motor out (although the torque converter decided to come out with the engine though). Thanks for the input! I'll be posting pictures soon.
 
  #15  
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:29 PM
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Glad to hear you stuck with it got just the motor out. The only thing I hate about these trucks is that the motor sits back so far. When I installed my new 5.9 motor, I made sure I had a new distributor cap (with brass inserts) and rotor on it, since the distributor is very hard to access with the motor and intake manifold (kegger) in-place.

Look forward to your pictures and seeing the new motor installed...
 
  #16  
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:35 PM
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I wonder if applying a thin coat of anti seize on the face of the starter when replacing would prevent this from happening again.
 
  #17  
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:52 PM
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I had the same starter problem... Ended up using my weight on a 1/2" drive socket and ended up bending the dumb top bolt... Then I found out the holes on the starter are slightly out of whack with my bell, so I ended using a metric bolt up top and a US beneath. Worked like a charm.
 
  #18  
Old 04-17-2013 | 03:57 AM
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I've thought about it a few times and the only thing that'd make me consider it would be the fact of how tough it was to get the top two bell housing bolts off & on lol. When I put my sisters motor back in, I went from under the truck with a swivel and bunch of extensions and then on the passengers side I remember a 1/8th turn at a time back ache fest from sitting in one spot doing nothing.

The biggest pain in the Hershey highway was the fact while I was taking a break to eat my sandwich and have a beer, my sisters drunk friend figured it was best to take the wiring harness out with the motor, which caused several issues after the new motor was in...like harness clamps not holding the harness and then it falls down onto the exhaust manifolds and the vacuum 4x4 actuator lines breaking/leaking from being pulled off. I've learned through the years, the less you have to fk with the better unless it substantially benefits you in time and quality of work.
 

Last edited by JoshSlash87; 04-17-2013 at 04:02 AM.
  #19  
Old 05-07-2013 | 10:33 PM
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Ok, sorry for the delay, but I got the engine pulled and torn down. I'm uploading some pictures.

Name:  EngineBefore_zps5fe3fed4.jpg
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OilOrMud_zpsc3a3ae4e.jpg?t=1367979943

FilthyIntakeManifold_zps9185fa51.jpg?t=1367979937

This is after I drained the oil!
HorridLifteValley_zpsaac86a3a.jpg?t=1367979932

I cut the starter off to get it out!
EngineOut_zps14d27270.jpg?t=1367979919

Heads off
HeadsOff_zps450b6e7c.jpg?t=1367979906

Baked on crud!
20130424_171258_zps37d96a46.jpg?t=1367979892

Oil pan sludge
SludgeInPan_zpsa2135e18.jpg?t=1367979886

busted cam bearing 1
CamBearing2_zps3960000e.jpg?t=1367979872

Busted cam bearing 2
CamBearing1_zpsd6f1b670.jpg?t=1367979865

Rod Bearing
RodBearing_zpsf102a830.jpg?t=1367979859

Rusty!
RustedEngine_zps4fc7d376.jpg?t=1367979853

Notice the oil filter...
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Worst Oil Filter Ever!
WorstOilFilterEver_zps86de6418.jpg?t=1367979827

Got some rust off!
RustOff1_zpse43d67c9.jpg?t=1367979807
 

Last edited by 1997JollyGreenGiant; 05-07-2013 at 10:40 PM.
  #20  
Old 05-07-2013 | 10:46 PM
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So today I got all the sludge out of the block that I could and I cleaned the gasket surfaces. Currently, all the machined surfaces are covered in motor oil. The cross-hatch pattern is visible in the cylinder bores. I'm going to take the block to a machine shop to get it cleaned and checked. This is my first engine rebuild. What machine work should I get done?

I'm pretty comfortable with working with the top end of an engine, but the bottom end is new to me. Any tips on rebuilding it? Or am I better getting someone else to do it? Please be kind, I've never dealt with a bottom end before.
 


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