Ok - went and started it just now. Had one of those charge cans with a gauge on it. Clutch cycled - pressure was a bit low so I added until it was correct. Cycling between about 25 and 45. Ran fine for about 10 minutes both at idle and revved up to about 3k rpms. Then it stopped, acted like it wanted to engage, and didn't. Pressure on the gauge went up to about 75 (in the red). Pulled relay and switched with a good one. No engage. Pulled clutch wire connector apart and tested both ground and power with test light. Good there. Can't get to the diode thingy on the back of the clutch to test it. So is the clutch itself bad?? And can I change that out without pumping the system??

 

If you had power TO it... and ground, then the clutch should engage. By doing that you just isolated the rest of the system from the clutch/coil....you determined that, electrically, the system is functional up to that point. Electrically includes the high and low switches as well, which in turn rules out Freon level as a reason for it not engaging. Otherwise there would be no power at the clutch.

When your LOW side rises back up after the clutch disengages, that is the high and low sides equalizing. Typically at rest will be 80-100 psi on both sides. On a restricted orifice system it will take longer to equalize and you'll hear a hissing noise coming from condenser. That is pressure bleeding past the orifice.

 

Well then I looked on E-bay and found a clutch kit for like $84. Guess that is the next move???

 

Yup. Check with your local parts store, and see if they have the tool for pulling the pulley/clutch assembly.

 

About a week ago I posted up this thread: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...g-me-nuts.html
The A/C clutch was working until it got hot and then it would quit altogether.

Well - I fixed it. I ordered a Clutch Kit from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320984866771...84.m1497.l2649
And I swapped it out yesterday. Drove the truck all over town afterward with no issues.
I did not replace the bearing that comes with the kit as the one in the pulley was fine - and I don't have a press to get the old one out. I didn't use any "special tools" to do the swap - but you will need a 4" or 6" three fingered puller to get the pulley off - and I drained about a gallon of coolant out of the radiator so I could take the upper hose and radiator shroud off so it was easier to get to. Took me about a hour total. The magnetic coil I took off was cracked - so that is what was wrong I'm thinking. Works great now!

 

Not to be a dick (well, yes, to be a dick) but this should really going in the original thread. Then ask a Mod to modify the title.

Either way, great job on the fix. I had someone inquire if the compressor from my truck is OK. It probably wouldn't hurt to install this kit on the compressor in order to sell the unit.

 

If the space between the clutch plate and magnet part of compressor gets bigger than 3/1000 of an inch, it won't engage or hold for long. You can check with a feeler gauge. I just used a small hammer to close the gap and has been working since last year. Or you can buy the clutch kit or a new compressor.