Need a new axle?
So basically my balljoints are rusted in my axle so badly, that the shop that it is currently sitting at says that they are going to just drill them out, and I may have to buy a new axle assembly if the new ball joints don't stay in. Is this correct or can I just buy new parts?
Those buggers are riveted in in the 2000/2001 trucks, so yeah, they're a pain to get out. But having to drill the ball joints out is a bit drastic.
As for swapping axles, that would be fun, since you'd have to swap gears too as you've got 4.10s and the truck you'd be getting the axle from would have 3.55's.
As for swapping axles, that would be fun, since you'd have to swap gears too as you've got 4.10s and the truck you'd be getting the axle from would have 3.55's.
My bad, thought all 00/01 were riveted. But yeah, still rust? You live in Arizona. lol
Riveted ball joints you either take a grinder and grind the head of the rivet off, or use a air hammer with a cutting chisel, than drill out some of the rivet and than you can usually beat it out with a punch.
But you should have Press in ball joints.
If it's that rusty a little heat and a good ball joint press should get them free.
But you should have Press in ball joints.
If it's that rusty a little heat and a good ball joint press should get them free.
They are not riveted. sheesh
Your shop must be lacking regardless of rust.
Yes they can be a biznitch to get out.
I'd take to a different shop if they are recommending this course of action. Actually, I might would say you get over there to look yourself to be sure nothing is "up". Like did they mess something already?
Really odd to come across such a recommendation of drilling out. Doing it this way makes for much more opportunity to damage the C's. Once they are drilled out, hack out the internals, then use a BFH to remove the rest? Press should still work....
Your shop must be lacking regardless of rust.
Yes they can be a biznitch to get out.
I'd take to a different shop if they are recommending this course of action. Actually, I might would say you get over there to look yourself to be sure nothing is "up". Like did they mess something already?
Really odd to come across such a recommendation of drilling out. Doing it this way makes for much more opportunity to damage the C's. Once they are drilled out, hack out the internals, then use a BFH to remove the rest? Press should still work....
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some confusion in terms here.
OP has a 4wd, so he's either talking about u-joints and axles, or ball joints and steering knuckles.
your shop is more or less correct, in that if the new joints won't stay in place, you'll need new parts. i had to replace a rear drive shaft because of this.
just tell them to be careful with YOUR parts and not destroy them unnecessarily. if they do destroy them, and then try to run up your bill with new parts - if you're not happy, don't let them finish the job, tow it elsewhere....
if you need new parts, be sure and get them from a junkyard, otherwise they will cost a fortune.
OP has a 4wd, so he's either talking about u-joints and axles, or ball joints and steering knuckles.
your shop is more or less correct, in that if the new joints won't stay in place, you'll need new parts. i had to replace a rear drive shaft because of this.
just tell them to be careful with YOUR parts and not destroy them unnecessarily. if they do destroy them, and then try to run up your bill with new parts - if you're not happy, don't let them finish the job, tow it elsewhere....
if you need new parts, be sure and get them from a junkyard, otherwise they will cost a fortune.
Press in ball joints will always come out. Just gotta get serious. For the fellers that are REALLY uncooperative, I just use an air hammer, and pound 'em out. Works every time. I have never had to use heat, and I live in the rust belt......







