96 Ram 1500, convert to 4X4?
#1
96 Ram 1500, convert to 4X4?
I have my Dad's 96 Ram club cab. I've been thinking about selling it and trying to find a 1st gen diesel 4X4. Only problem, I just can't seem to let go of Dad's truck. I need a 4X4. I've had the chance to buy wrecked or blown up 4X4's for cheap, a couple hundred bucks. My truck has 90K on it and is 100% rust free, never wrecked. If I bought a donor truck could I put all of the 4X4 stuff in my rwd truck? Thanks, Joe.
Last edited by rarefish383; 06-22-2013 at 01:49 AM.
#3
#4
in order to do it you would have to swap in both axles, the CAD system, the xfer case and mount and skid plate all that bs right there. and you would have to cut and put in the xfer case shift lever inside the truck. i would honestly just keep what u have a cheerish it man, find a cheap 4x4.
#5
how much time and energy have you got?
change all of these --
complete front axle assembly with control arms, track bar, shocks.
any of the steering linkage? (probably all of it)
transmission (rear config is different)
transfer case
4wd tcase shift linkage.
rear drive shaft (shorter)
front driver shaft
find/connect the wire at the cad for the 4wd indicator light
edit - also the donor auto transmission must be almost the exact same year as the original, or else it won't connect, or won't operate properly with the PCM.
edit - also something about the t-case shift direction is different between early and later years, but if your tcase and shifter come from the same truck then they'll match regardless of year.
change all of these --
complete front axle assembly with control arms, track bar, shocks.
any of the steering linkage? (probably all of it)
transmission (rear config is different)
transfer case
4wd tcase shift linkage.
rear drive shaft (shorter)
front driver shaft
find/connect the wire at the cad for the 4wd indicator light
edit - also the donor auto transmission must be almost the exact same year as the original, or else it won't connect, or won't operate properly with the PCM.
edit - also something about the t-case shift direction is different between early and later years, but if your tcase and shifter come from the same truck then they'll match regardless of year.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 06-22-2013 at 12:19 PM.
#6
I see your point. It would be easier to find a rusted out truck with a good drive train and swap my body. Just can't bring another vehicle home. Maybe I'll put a posi in it and see if that helps. I have a farm in WV and I spend half a day trying to get up and down the drive ways to my place and my cousins, next door. Thanks, Joe.
#7
for amazing improved traction, put in a powertrax noslip "lunchbox locker" and a set of mudgrips on the rear. noslip is a simple diy install, costs about $400 or so if you shop around.
i had one in for a long time and never used 4wd. i only removed it because i was chasing a popping sound and thought it might be causing it, but it turned out to be wallowed out rear drive shaft yoke. i might put it back in someday. the only downside is that because the locker is normally engaged, it chews up the grass when you drive in the yard. otherwise, no clicking, no popping, no real issues.
i had one in for a long time and never used 4wd. i only removed it because i was chasing a popping sound and thought it might be causing it, but it turned out to be wallowed out rear drive shaft yoke. i might put it back in someday. the only downside is that because the locker is normally engaged, it chews up the grass when you drive in the yard. otherwise, no clicking, no popping, no real issues.
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#8
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for amazing improved traction, put in a powertrax noslip "lunchbox locker" and a set of mudgrips on the rear. noslip is a simple diy install, costs about $400 or so if you shop around.
i had one in for a long time and never used 4wd. i only removed it because i was chasing a popping sound and thought it might be causing it, but it turned out to be wallowed out rear drive shaft yoke. i might put it back in someday. the only downside is that because the locker is normally engaged, it chews up the grass when you drive in the yard. otherwise, no clicking, no popping, no real issues.
i had one in for a long time and never used 4wd. i only removed it because i was chasing a popping sound and thought it might be causing it, but it turned out to be wallowed out rear drive shaft yoke. i might put it back in someday. the only downside is that because the locker is normally engaged, it chews up the grass when you drive in the yard. otherwise, no clicking, no popping, no real issues.
#9
#10
Sharp looking truck! Dad had good taste
I also had an '86 Ramcharger, great truck and the think was a tank in 4x4, lol. I got rid of it though. One day I was going to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets, I pulled the bolt on the right side rear of the engine first and when coolant started shooting out of that bolt hole I tightened the bolt back in it and sold that thing!
I also had an '86 Ramcharger, great truck and the think was a tank in 4x4, lol. I got rid of it though. One day I was going to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets, I pulled the bolt on the right side rear of the engine first and when coolant started shooting out of that bolt hole I tightened the bolt back in it and sold that thing!