So plenum and tune up has been done since Nov and everything has been great. I just did my K&N CAI and that's awesome. Gonna be doing the second oil change but I'm going to Sea-Foam it before I change the oil.

I also want to change my fluids. I've had the truck for 2 years now and haven't changed them yet. I don't know what the previous owner did or didn't do. Figured it's probably a good idea to change them since it's an 01 with 114,000 miles. I wanna knock out all of them at once - engine oil and filter change, transmission oil and filter change, transfer case oil change, and front and rear diff oil change. I'm running one of the longer PH8 filters now and it's been pretty good so I'm going to run another one.

I thinking about running Royal Purple synthetic's in everything. I've herd alot of good about Royal Purple and how it helps with less friction and all that good stuff. Only downside it's a lil higher priced.

My questions are where is the best spot to put the Sea-Foam and does running 93 during the Sea-Foam process help out more.

Also what are your thoughts on changing all these fluids and also using Royal Purple.

Andddddd after all thats done I'm doing a full custom exhaust system, Rancho 5000s, and front u-joints.

 

Best practice is to use the brake booster hose to suck the SeaFoam out of the can, do the whole can.

 

Ok now what exactly is the whole procedure with Sea Foam I'm a lil confused on it.

 

 

Instructions are on the can.

Start truck, use brake booster to suck in SeaFoam, let truck sit for about 15 minutes, start it up and watch the smoke show

I seem to get better smoke results if I don't wait the 15 minutes and just let it run. Wonder how much good it does that way?

 

Don't do what I did the first time: accidentally let the SF run out before you're finished.

Had to do it again and actually choked it out the way it is supposed to be done. Smoked out my entire street. I gotta get some more and try it again....too much in town driving..

 

Some people have reported that the magnum engines don't much care for synthetic oils...they were actually designed to run regular conventional motor oil and some motors develop a ticking sound that goes away once it is switched back to conventional. Initially I had my truck running synthetic but switched back to conventional for my last oil change because of what I have read on a couple forums. Why waste money on synthetic oil in something that was designed for conventional? Just do regular oil changes every 3-4k and you wont have any trouble with sludge. Also, make sure you add the friction modifier to the rear diff if required...

 

Good point Davies thanks for the info. So then in your opinion what is the best brand conventional oil for our trucks?

 

I regularly work on a DF members 98 ram with a 360(jacksoncove) , that has used mobil 1 since the day he bought it in 98. It now has 330K on it. It purrs like a kitten and sounds like a new motor or better. It's just a myth about using synthetic. Dyno oils are almost as good as far cleaning and protection goes. If the motor was maintained properly throughout it's life, you'll have no problem. If it wasn't , even the new dyno oils of today will potentially cause a leak when you start maintaining it properly.

 

Correction the engine has 338000 miles all original except oil pan, oil pump,water pump,timing chain and plenum plate. OP I am a firm believer that using a good quality oil filter like wix gold or hastings I would drop the fram I have read and been told there quality is not good