oil pan gasket
hey everyone, im gonna be changing the oil pan gasket on my 1998 ram 1500 reg cab, 2wd, 5.9 magnum. i have questions as i have never done this before. is it a simple drop the pan, replace gasket and bolt back up? i realize i might have to remove starter and inspection plate. is there anything i should apply to the oil pan bolts such as a rtv sealant or threadlocker? also is it just a gasket that goes on the oil pan or should i apply rtv to the pan as well? any info is appreciated. i have never done this and i want to know exactly what to do.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by zach98sst; Jan 12, 2015 at 10:22 PM.
hey everyone, im gonna be changing the oil pan gasket on my 1998 ram 1500 ss/t (reg cab, 2wd, 5.9 magnum). i have questions as i have never done this before. is it a simple drop the pan, replace gasket and bolt back up? i realize i might have to remove starter and inspection plate. is there anything i should apply to the oil pan bolts such as a rtv sealant or threadlocker? also is it just a gasket that goes on the oil pan or should i apply rtv to the pan as well? any info is appreciated. i have never done this and i want to know exactly what to do.
Thanks!
Thanks!
engine only has 18000 km (11000 miles) on it so i'll hold off on the rear main and oil pump for now, the oil pan gasket is split in the front middle of the round part. should i put anything else on the pan or just the gasket?
thanks for the help
thanks for the help
I think he is saying, if your pan gasket is leaking, it is a good chance it is leaking other places as well. The rear seal is a PITA to replace if that is all you are replacing. It never fails when you go in and just replace 1 piece of the puzzle, something else in the same place needs to be replaced/repaired shortly after. Murphy's law. He was just trying to save you a near future head ache.
oil pan gasket itself is easy, it the stupid starter that's hard. on my 01, the starter bolts were torqued to about 100 million foot pounds so i had to stack up some 1/2 inch drive extensions to get out past the engine mount, and then put a long pull bar on it. also - be gentle on the small electrical connector. the red tab has to slide and unlock and click when it does.
also - disconnect battery since you're twisting on the big (hot) starter wire.
i used the good and expensive rubber coated felpro gasket. i put a very thin smear of rtv on the curved section in front and back, and where the curve transitions over to the flat gasket i put a heavy smear in those cavities. i did not use any thread locker, but a very small amount wouldn't hurt anything. don't overdo it since you'll need to change your rear main one of these days.
also - disconnect battery since you're twisting on the big (hot) starter wire.
i used the good and expensive rubber coated felpro gasket. i put a very thin smear of rtv on the curved section in front and back, and where the curve transitions over to the flat gasket i put a heavy smear in those cavities. i did not use any thread locker, but a very small amount wouldn't hurt anything. don't overdo it since you'll need to change your rear main one of these days.
thanks everyone, im going to change the pan gasket tomorrow, i got a good felpro gasket yesterday. i'll be sure to add a little rtv to gasket. i'll reply back when truck is fixed.
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Got the oil pan gasket changed today, dropped the starter and inspection plate, the oil pan came out no problem. y-pipe was far enough away that it didnt cause problems. i got the job done in 2 and half hours. thanks again for help.




