Recommendations for wheel hub ?
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
@zman17... Thanks for the tip on the sig.. I have the FSM and Parts Manuals from Chrysler. Also have NIST calibrated torque wrenches to 0.1 in/lbs to 700ft/lbs.. I'm good to go on the technical front
The thread was about getting a recommendations on parts.. I'm tired of crap parts failing in a year. My time is worth the extra $100, I just want to get the right parts.
The thread was about getting a recommendations on parts.. I'm tired of crap parts failing in a year. My time is worth the extra $100, I just want to get the right parts.
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
@zman17: Thanks for the tip on the sig 
Didn't know I can use the phone.. awesome.. didn't change the hubs the last time due to work travel.
My big gap is the do's and don'ts, which "junk parts" to avoid, procedures not in the manuals ie keeping gumout out of the AIC motor innards.
If I can avoid one hub change a year by spending an extra $100, I'll do it.. I just want to get the right parts.
BTW: I need to learn how to delete posts and edit..
Didn't know I can use the phone.. awesome.. didn't change the hubs the last time due to work travel. My big gap is the do's and don'ts, which "junk parts" to avoid, procedures not in the manuals ie keeping gumout out of the AIC motor innards.
If I can avoid one hub change a year by spending an extra $100, I'll do it.. I just want to get the right parts.
BTW: I need to learn how to delete posts and edit..
Last edited by Action Potential; Jul 7, 2013 at 01:50 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
Update: It was a toss up between SKF and Timken..
Timken Hubs ordered Waiting for them to arrive.. Time will tell how well they do..
Warranty: SKF and Timken 100,000 miles, others 12,000/12 months.
Timken Hubs ordered Waiting for them to arrive.. Time will tell how well they do..
Warranty: SKF and Timken 100,000 miles, others 12,000/12 months.
Thread Starter
|
Rookie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Colorado
I found this interesting article from the Bendix Guy:
Here is a link to measure Lateral Runout
Jay M Buckley
Bendix Answerman <>
Pedal Pulsation-How and Why it Happens
We have all experienced the feeling of applying the brakes at 50mph only to fell the brake pedal “dancing” under your foot. Most mechanics have also experienced a “pulsation” related comeback after performing a first class brake job on their customer’s car. Why did it happen? What are the causes?
In order to explain this we first must learn a few definitions.
RTV-This stands for Rotor Thickness Variation. Thickness variation on a new rotor should be practically undetectable. To measure for RTV, mark a rotor at 15 different but equally spaced intervals. Measure rotor thickness at these intervals and record. There should be no more than .001 variation on a new (or resurfaced) rotor.
Lateral Runout-Lateral runout is measured using a dial indicator mounted on the spindle or adjacent area with the pointer resting in the middle of the rotor surface. The rotor should be held on by at least three lug nuts torqued to specifications. While turning the rotor, note runout. It should not be more than .002
Rotor Indexing-This is the practice of marking the lug stud and rotor before rotor removal in order to return it to its previous position. This can be very important because the vehicle manufacturer may have installed the rotor in a certain position from the factory to minimize runout. It is not necessary when you are replacing a rotor.
Brake Align-Brake Align is a new company to the undercar business that has come up with a quick and easy way for technicians to correct runout-using shims between the wheel hub and rotor.
Non-Directional Finish-This is the practice of using sandpaper or other power tools to put a non-directional swirl type finish on all rotors, new or reground. It s now recommended by all vehicle manufacturers and helps to properly break in friction and rotor surfaces.
To properly install a rotor during your brake job, the following steps should be adhered to in order to insure a trouble free installation.
Index the rotor if you are going to reuse it, returning the rotor to its original position helps to insure minimal runout. Machine the rotor in a brake lathe and finish with a non-directional finish. Complete this with a wash in hot soap and water, drying with paper towels. Brake Cleaner does not remove all the metal particles from the rotor, shop air and rags usually contain oil that can contaminate rotor surfaces and friction material.
Proper cleaning of hubs and inside the rotor hat. It is extremely important to remove all traces of rust and corrosion from inside the rotor hat and the hub surface that the rotor rides on. Many techs use a wire wheel on a drill for this. This method does not do a good enough job in cleaning around the wheel studs. Kent-Moore makes a tool especially for this J-42450A. The 3M company also makes a special scotchbrite pad that is made to clean around the studs.
Checking the endplay of the hub bearing. Front wheel drive hub bearings should have .002 or less endplay. More than that will result in eventual RTV.
Proper tightening of lug nuts. You must follow this procedure to make sure you do not induce runout while installing the wheels. Do not lubricate the lug studs. All vehicle manufacturers say that you should never lubricate the studs. False torque readings will result. Hand tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Tighten to one half of maximum specified torque value. Tighten to the full torque spec as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. You can induce lateral runout by using an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts. This runout will lead to RTV and pedal pulsation.
Checking installed runout. If the installed runout is above specs, try moving the rotor one lug at a time to see if it can be corrected. You can also use the “Brake Align” shim system to accomplish this. As a last resort (the one recommended by all manufacturers) is to machine the rotor with an on car brake lathe. This will match the rotor to the hub and done properly, with result in no runout.
Why runout causes pedal pulsation 1-4000miles down the road. When a rotor is installed with over spec runout, it may not be felt in the brake pedal immediately. Over time, the high spot on the rotor wipes the friction material every time it goes around. This can cause friction material to be deposited on the rotor making the high spot even higher. When it gets high enough, pedal pulsation and an unhappy customer is the result.
Many technicians will say that this is not the way I have performed rotor service in the past. Brake systems and rotors are much different that they used to be. Rotors are much lighter and most do not have integral hubs. Sealed roller bearings have replaced tapered bearings. Performing your rotor servicing as outlined above insures a quality brake job as well as a satisfied customer.
Bendix Answerman <>
Pedal Pulsation-How and Why it Happens
We have all experienced the feeling of applying the brakes at 50mph only to fell the brake pedal “dancing” under your foot. Most mechanics have also experienced a “pulsation” related comeback after performing a first class brake job on their customer’s car. Why did it happen? What are the causes?
In order to explain this we first must learn a few definitions.
RTV-This stands for Rotor Thickness Variation. Thickness variation on a new rotor should be practically undetectable. To measure for RTV, mark a rotor at 15 different but equally spaced intervals. Measure rotor thickness at these intervals and record. There should be no more than .001 variation on a new (or resurfaced) rotor.
Lateral Runout-Lateral runout is measured using a dial indicator mounted on the spindle or adjacent area with the pointer resting in the middle of the rotor surface. The rotor should be held on by at least three lug nuts torqued to specifications. While turning the rotor, note runout. It should not be more than .002
Rotor Indexing-This is the practice of marking the lug stud and rotor before rotor removal in order to return it to its previous position. This can be very important because the vehicle manufacturer may have installed the rotor in a certain position from the factory to minimize runout. It is not necessary when you are replacing a rotor.
Brake Align-Brake Align is a new company to the undercar business that has come up with a quick and easy way for technicians to correct runout-using shims between the wheel hub and rotor.
Non-Directional Finish-This is the practice of using sandpaper or other power tools to put a non-directional swirl type finish on all rotors, new or reground. It s now recommended by all vehicle manufacturers and helps to properly break in friction and rotor surfaces.
To properly install a rotor during your brake job, the following steps should be adhered to in order to insure a trouble free installation.
Index the rotor if you are going to reuse it, returning the rotor to its original position helps to insure minimal runout. Machine the rotor in a brake lathe and finish with a non-directional finish. Complete this with a wash in hot soap and water, drying with paper towels. Brake Cleaner does not remove all the metal particles from the rotor, shop air and rags usually contain oil that can contaminate rotor surfaces and friction material.
Proper cleaning of hubs and inside the rotor hat. It is extremely important to remove all traces of rust and corrosion from inside the rotor hat and the hub surface that the rotor rides on. Many techs use a wire wheel on a drill for this. This method does not do a good enough job in cleaning around the wheel studs. Kent-Moore makes a tool especially for this J-42450A. The 3M company also makes a special scotchbrite pad that is made to clean around the studs.
Checking the endplay of the hub bearing. Front wheel drive hub bearings should have .002 or less endplay. More than that will result in eventual RTV.
Proper tightening of lug nuts. You must follow this procedure to make sure you do not induce runout while installing the wheels. Do not lubricate the lug studs. All vehicle manufacturers say that you should never lubricate the studs. False torque readings will result. Hand tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Tighten to one half of maximum specified torque value. Tighten to the full torque spec as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. You can induce lateral runout by using an impact wrench to tighten lug nuts. This runout will lead to RTV and pedal pulsation.
Checking installed runout. If the installed runout is above specs, try moving the rotor one lug at a time to see if it can be corrected. You can also use the “Brake Align” shim system to accomplish this. As a last resort (the one recommended by all manufacturers) is to machine the rotor with an on car brake lathe. This will match the rotor to the hub and done properly, with result in no runout.
Why runout causes pedal pulsation 1-4000miles down the road. When a rotor is installed with over spec runout, it may not be felt in the brake pedal immediately. Over time, the high spot on the rotor wipes the friction material every time it goes around. This can cause friction material to be deposited on the rotor making the high spot even higher. When it gets high enough, pedal pulsation and an unhappy customer is the result.
Many technicians will say that this is not the way I have performed rotor service in the past. Brake systems and rotors are much different that they used to be. Rotors are much lighter and most do not have integral hubs. Sealed roller bearings have replaced tapered bearings. Performing your rotor servicing as outlined above insures a quality brake job as well as a satisfied customer.