Trans Question and critique please
Hello, I am new and have been researching. There is a tremendous amount of information here and it has helped me a lot. Here we go.
I have a 1997 2500 4x4 5.9 auto: 118k
The fluid and filter were recently changed. The truck was used to tow a horse trailer but now I use it for dump runs and because i like to drive it.
The truck does not want to shift out of gear. This can happen from 1st to second or 2nd to third. When it does shift it shifts very hard, in good way. This does not happen all the time and when it is not happening it shifts great.
From reading here I checked the throttle valve for binding and when the valve is opened it sticks. It gets harder to move the more it is opened.
Should I
1. Drop the pan clean the throttle body and if the valve moves freely put it back together?
or get a throttle valve kit from here ?http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...771-03K-IN.pdf
2. Do the same as above but also replace the Governor sensor and solenoid with the borg warner or stock?
3. Mess with adjusting the bands? It doesn't sip, it shifts hard it just doesn't like to shift???
I know I am asking a lot and i appreciate any help!
I am leaning towards dropping the pan and cleaning the throttle body, valve, and replacing the governor sensor and solenoid. Checking the bands for play and if they are not way out leave them alone.
I just don't want to waste any money if this is not the best route to go.
Thank you in advance!
Bill
I have a 1997 2500 4x4 5.9 auto: 118k
The fluid and filter were recently changed. The truck was used to tow a horse trailer but now I use it for dump runs and because i like to drive it.
The truck does not want to shift out of gear. This can happen from 1st to second or 2nd to third. When it does shift it shifts very hard, in good way. This does not happen all the time and when it is not happening it shifts great.
From reading here I checked the throttle valve for binding and when the valve is opened it sticks. It gets harder to move the more it is opened.
Should I
1. Drop the pan clean the throttle body and if the valve moves freely put it back together?
or get a throttle valve kit from here ?http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...771-03K-IN.pdf
2. Do the same as above but also replace the Governor sensor and solenoid with the borg warner or stock?
3. Mess with adjusting the bands? It doesn't sip, it shifts hard it just doesn't like to shift???
I know I am asking a lot and i appreciate any help!
I am leaning towards dropping the pan and cleaning the throttle body, valve, and replacing the governor sensor and solenoid. Checking the bands for play and if they are not way out leave them alone.
I just don't want to waste any money if this is not the best route to go.
Thank you in advance!
Bill
There is a spring in there, so, not surprising it gets more difficult the more you extend it. If you think it is excessive, or, if it is sticking, cleaning the valve body sure won't hurt. (shift kit time? sonax sure cure?) If you have the proper tools, band adjustment won't hurt either.
Changing the fluid/filter won't hurt you either. The sensors/solenoids is up to you. If you have the spare cash, go for it. If you don't, well, if it ain't broke.....
Welcome to DF!
Changing the fluid/filter won't hurt you either. The sensors/solenoids is up to you. If you have the spare cash, go for it. If you don't, well, if it ain't broke.....

Welcome to DF!
There is a spring in there, so, not surprising it gets more difficult the more you extend it. If you think it is excessive, or, if it is sticking, cleaning the valve body sure won't hurt. (shift kit time? sonax sure cure?) If you have the proper tools, band adjustment won't hurt either.
Changing the fluid/filter won't hurt you either. The sensors/solenoids is up to you. If you have the spare cash, go for it. If you don't, well, if it ain't broke.....
Welcome to DF!
Changing the fluid/filter won't hurt you either. The sensors/solenoids is up to you. If you have the spare cash, go for it. If you don't, well, if it ain't broke.....

Welcome to DF!

What I meant to say is it get harder more than the spring causes. I just took the TV cable off and it moves freely but the valve itself does not. It gets harder and sticks the more you open it.
Also, the metal where the spring is attached is rusted and weak. Looking for info on how to change that now.
The truck shifts up to 2nd late and hard (3k) but gets stuck in 3rd.
Thanks again
Bill
Ok after reading and HeyYou's suggestion. I think a Sonnax Sure Cure will be a good upgrade. Then put a drain plug in my pan so if have to open it to replace anything else I can reuse my fluid and not make a mess.
Anyone know where I can get the metal piece that connects to the throttle valve. Where the spring attaches. It is very weak ad bends easily.
Anything else?
thank you
Bill
Anyone know where I can get the metal piece that connects to the throttle valve. Where the spring attaches. It is very weak ad bends easily.
Anything else?
thank you
Bill
Try here, but I'm betting you'll only find and exterior piece like that at a JY.
https://www.wittrans.com/
https://www.wittrans.com/
ok will look at the thread in a sec.
Just took the throttle cable off and did a test run. The truck shifts fine 1st 2nd 3rd. No problem. Put the cable back on and it shifted through the gears same. But, when I got on it a little it stuck in gear. When I got home the kick down cable was stuck open.
I'm thinking I need to start with the throttle valve kit at least and prob better to get the Sure Cure.
thnks again
Bill
Just took the throttle cable off and did a test run. The truck shifts fine 1st 2nd 3rd. No problem. Put the cable back on and it shifted through the gears same. But, when I got on it a little it stuck in gear. When I got home the kick down cable was stuck open.
I'm thinking I need to start with the throttle valve kit at least and prob better to get the Sure Cure.
thnks again
Bill
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Hello, I have a 1997 2500 4x4 auto. I was messing with the kick down cable because of shift problems when I noticed where the throttle cable connects to the valve the metal is rusted and it is VERY weak.
My question is: Can that metal piece where the cable and spring connect to the valve come off separately from the pin? I just want to change that piece.
Thank you
Bill
My question is: Can that metal piece where the cable and spring connect to the valve come off separately from the pin? I just want to change that piece.
Thank you
Bill
As has been stated in the your other thread.
(Please keep the same related problem in that thread). Thanks.
I'm going to merge this one to that one.
Go to JY, get bracket and spring. Also here is some more info in case I forgot it's in the other thread. (about to become the same thread)
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-in-trans.html
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...Adjustment.pdf
(Please keep the same related problem in that thread). Thanks.
I'm going to merge this one to that one. Go to JY, get bracket and spring. Also here is some more info in case I forgot it's in the other thread. (about to become the same thread)
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-in-trans.html
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...Adjustment.pdf







