I'm pulling the plugs tomorrow to check them out but I'm open to suggestions on what could cause the issue.
When I took off from the store I noticed what I thought was a slight hesitation so I gassed it a little bit in the parking lot, I still felt it.
Driving for a mile or so I felt it a little and heard it in the pipes by the dip in volume. When I got to where I could floor it from a stop I got to about 3000 rpms before I heard 6 or 7 pops from the engine so I let off it and kept the rpms under 2500 the rest of the way home.
This issue just started today.
I have no CEL.
I think I put the plugs in there last year (Champion truck plugs).
The wires got changed when the plugs did.

A couple of the fuel injectors have broken clips on the pigtails but they're zip tied to the injectors and have been for a few years. I don't know yet if one worked loose.

 

Recheck the injector connectors... The popping though, indicates either injector firing too soon, (popping out the intake) or the plug not igniting the fuel. (popping in the exhaust) I have a have a look at the cam (intake) or crank (exhaust) sensors.

I had a miss at large throttle openings that would have the CEL flashing. Harder you stepped on the gas, worse it got. Crank sensor fixed it. Truck ran much better.

 

When was your distributor cap and rotor changed to a quality one?

 

Aim sent me a link for the injector pigtails a while back but it is bookmarked on my computer at my parents house. I'm going to order some today just in case my redneck repair isn't holding up.

I had a CEL when my cam sensor went out but I have heard of people having a bad one with no CEL. Can the crank and cam sensors be tested? My crank sensor has never been changed.

I say that the popping came from the engine but as soon as I heard it I let off the gas and didn't want to make the engine do it again so I'm not sure.
I do have thin walled headers and no hood insulation so it may have come from the exhaust and I just heard it resonate through the headers.

The cap and rotor were changed a year or so ago, they have brass contacts.

I need to stop by the parts store on the way to my parents before digging into this because the anti seize has caked into the threads of the plug holes pretty good and I don't want to put plugs back into the heads without chasing the threads first to clean them up.

 

Yeah, cam or crank sensor can be not precisely accurate, yet still not set a code. Mine never did. Lots of misfire codes though.

There are some test procedures in the FSM for the cam sensor, that all you need is a VOM, but, need the scan tool for the crank sensor.

 

Could a weak coil cause the misfire above 3000rpm? I don't think I've ever changed that.
It sounded like when you bump fire an AR-15, all cylinders misfiring at once but since the motor was spinning as fast as it was it didn't die.

 

I drove it a while ago. It was after 8 miles or so and after parking for a few minutes at a store that I noticed the misfire again. This time it was doing it at idle, sitting in a drive thru. I've always had a slight miss that I could only feel at idle but it was barely there, this new one is strong enough to make the tachometer needle dip a little bit when it misses.
I have new plugs and wires in the truck and they're going in the engine tomorrow. I got NGK V-Power because they didn't have any stock champions or Bosch platinum +4.

 

Go for the crank sensor. Sounds like it is failing after engine is warm, and it gets a bit heat-soaked.

 

Ok. I'm not as limber as I used to be so that's going to be fun to change. I've heard that you have to be a contortionist to change it out.

 

You heard right....

I laid a board across the top of the motor, and reached down from above. it was fun.... but, it worked.