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How far to take the preventative maintenance?

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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 12:29 AM
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Default How far to take the preventative maintenance?

So the truck is finally going to get some much needed attention. The water pump has been weeping for months now, and I haven't fixed the plenum, and the power steering pump is leaving some nice decorations on the pavement where I park at work. So it's time for some maintenance. The question is... How far do I go?

2001, 5.2, 126k on the clock, 2wd auto, all stock.

Since the water pump is getting replaced, the timing chain is also being upgraded to a double roller kit. Replace the thermostat and all radiator hoses (cheap insurance) as well. Plenum is being fixed with a Hughes kit and fel-pro gaskets. PCV valve as well, and probably a catch can for good measure.

Exhaust might get an upgrade at the same time, assuming that since the plenum is probably shot the cat is probably clogged as well. I'll have it pressure tested before I order parts. Looking at pacesetter shorties, factory replacement cat and y-pipe, and dual output magnaflow muffler. (I'm not looking for outstanding exhaust performance, but the shorties are cheap enough that I might as well upgrade.)

And of course the little things at the same time... Plugs, wires, O2 sensor, dizzy cap and rotor, etc.

Since I will have essentially the entire top and front of the motor off, and the exhaust off at the same time, should I look at pulling the heads and replacing the head gaskets? If I'm pulling the heads, should I also take the time to replace the valve seals? I'm not experiencing any symptoms that suggest a cracked head and/or bad head gasket, and I've never torn that far into an engine before, so it would definitely be a learning experience.

Thoughts? I know lots of people are of the opinion that the heads are junk and I should upgrade to Odessa extra thick castings, but that's not in the budget right now. Am I saving myself a huge headache tearing it that far apart, or am I asking for trouble?

(By the way, in case anyone hasn't priced it out, my entire shopping cart at RockAuto was HALF what it would have been at AutoZone.)
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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If you aren't going to replace the heads leave them on there. No need to fix what ain't broke.

Don't bother with a factory y and cat. Get an aftermarket high flow cat and have a muffler shop fab you a y-pipe.

I would just replace the front O2 sensor as it has a major influence in fuel ratio and trims. The rear simply verifies that there is a working cat. And if it it isn't throwing a code it is likely good

Otherwise it all looks good me.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 11:03 AM
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I would not pull the heads either, if its running well.

There will be other maintenance issues - how is your front suspension and wheel bearings?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I was hoping that was the consensus.

Suspension is okay. Steering is mostly straight and had the ball joints replaced last year. It's the other repairs that are the more pressing need right now.

I think the steering box may be leaking as well, a few of the spots on the pavement are closer to the bumper than you would expect for the PS pump. Probably try to pull that off and replace the seals while Im in there.

Now to get a week off work and some warm weather to get all this done.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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The main leak point on the power steering box is the lower output shaft (where the pitman arm bolts on). That seal is famous for leaking. The seal kit is available from NAPA.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:25 PM
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With the Hughes kit they provide all the gaskets for reassembly. No extras needed. My kit also had a new thermostat.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 11:38 PM
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i knew a guy that drive till he had to drive to work in REV. ONLY till then would get it worked on.
 
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