Frame shop...I'd be more inclined to go to a competent alignment tech. The latest hunter machines can check offset, camber, caster, ride height and so on, they can even measure dogtrack front to rear. I just look at it like this, if it passes the frame shop you STILL have to align it, even if it's just to get it to drive right. And besides that, if the tech sees that the rear end is offset to the front more than a quarter of a degree or so he can't actually align it anyways. Thus no charge or less of a charge than the actual alignment. So frame damage (of this type) would be apparent at the alignment shop is what I'm saying. For 60-80 bucks you can get your answer right there.

To the OP, I think it's safe to say we all want to see what that upper ball joint looks like removed. Ball joints aren't easy to replace on these trucks for the first time, especially if they've been tweaked. Never ever use heat on them and if your in doubt leave it to the alignment tech, he has the tools to do it right. That's about all I have, good luck.

 

I Have a 2001 1/2 ton as well that has kept going thru bearings on the drivers side. Mine is a one piece unit hub and bearings, I don't know about the 4x4's tho. On mine, the big nut on the spindle is a locking nut that does say on the back "do not re-use. I failed to notice this a couple of times and it kept backing off and allowed it to chew the bearings up. $20.00 at the dodge house for a new nut and all is well. And the correct torque is 185 ft lbs. I know that seems to be a lot, but the race can handle it. I hope this is of some help to you, good luck