i need to replace the belt tensioner on my 1996 dodge 2500 v10.

how to i get it off? do i need to pull the alt and smot pump? chiltens is no help!

 

All you need to get it off is a T-50 torx bit. It's the bolt right in the center of the pivot point.

 

lmao i pulled it and it was it

thanks! i was scared because it said "do not disasamble" all the way around the bolt so i was afraid it woudl shoot out at me but it was it.


now it is squeeking at idle and from what i hear from others that it is the tensioner not the pully is this right?

i know with my van i replaced the belt when it was squeeking before i replaced the tensioner and it went away after just the belt.

my belt looks kinda bad, can i get away with just replacing the belt? or do you think i need to replace the whole thing?

 

Do you need to replace the whole tensioner or just the pulley. I assume you can replace the pulley but don't know about the v-10 but I had a dakota with a bad pulley/bearing. Bought a new pulley from the auto parts store, lubed up the spring on the spring tensioner and worked it back and forth until free and it was fine. Just something to check out. I think the pulley should come off separate from the tensioner but not for sure. It was much cheaper to do it that way.

 

You can try replacing the belt first. If it's worn, you'll need to do it eventually anyway. If you can, find a Goodyear Gatorback belt. They're a little pricey, but they're the best serpentine belt out there.

Chances are, judging by the age of the motor, it is probably the tensioner that's squeaking though. Before I replaced mine, I used to spray it down with silicone once a month. The only time it would squeak was when it was raining/damp outside. And even then, it would only squeak at idle or slow speeds.

I tried replacing just the pulley when mine was squeaking. It didn't change anything. That's when I noticed that the tensioner was worn to the point where it wasn't straight with the rest of the accessory pullies.

IIRC, the dealer was a few bucks cheaper than other part stores (NAPA, etc.) for a new tensioner. www.chryslerpartsdirect.com was the cheapest place.

 

it was a little crooked due to the age. it is a 1996 with 120,000 miles but the engine is new with only about 8,000 miles.

i bought it right after the dealer installed a new long block but i dont think they replaced it.


it was the same thign where i would install lube and it would go away for a little while and after about a month it would start again.

i figured i would just replace the pully but when i went to remove it i forgot it was reverse thred and broke the bult off in the assem.

i replacd the whole thing and it works great now.

now a new long block was installed and a new radiator and every other hose is new because they all still have the stickers on them, so im assuming they replaced the belt too but it has a few cracks..

i was gona just replace it just because but when a new belt cost $70 at shucks i said no for now.


thanks everyoen for the help

 

it was a little crooked due to the age. it is a 1996 with 120,000 miles but the engine is new with only about 8,000 miles.

i bought it right after the dealer installed a new long block but i dont think they replaced it.


it was the same thign where i would install lube and it would go away for a little while and after about a month it would start again.

i figured i would just replace the pully but when i went to remove it i forgot it was reverse thred and broke the bult off in the assem.

i replacd the whole thing and it works great now.

now a new long block was installed and a new radiator and every other hose is new because they all still have the stickers on them, so im assuming they replaced the belt too but it has a few cracks..

i was gona just replace it just because but when a new belt cost $70 at shucks i said no for now.


thanks everyoen for the help