Ok, I got started on it today. My plans are to post steps and pics on here since everybody here finds this conversion entertaining. Me included .


DAY 1:
Today I changed out the pedal assembly (pics coming soon) and I vowed to never do it again LOL. Tomorrow I have to finish re assembling the dash.


Btw, does someone have (or have access) to the 98 Dodge ram instructions to put in the flywheel , clutch, and pressure plate. I know the basics but I kinda need to know the torques (22 ft.IBS, I think) and where all bearings and related things go. I also just want to stupidly ask why I have to change the trans mainshaft to a 4x4 mainshaft. What's the difference. All I know is it has to be changed.




Thanks

 

There are 3 different service manuals available for download in the FAQ's section of this forum that should tell what you need to know.

Dave

 

2wd, and 4wd use different length output shafts, there may even be a difference in spline count.

While you have the dash out, replacing the heater core, and evap core may not be a bad idea.

 

Thanks ya'll, and HeyYou, The heater already just about runs me out of the cab LOL. But I cant remember exactly what function the evap core serves.

 

I still haven't got to posting pic for day one, but when I get ahold of a computer I can hook my camera up to, I will get them on. As for Day 2


DAY 2: Put the dash back together, took my old t-case 4x4 shifter molding out and put the new molding in without the shift boot ( I mostly did it as a reference for the hole Ill have to cut.


**NOTE: When I removed the molding (hump looking thing or whatever) under the cup Holder and next to the 4wd shifter, I noticed an electrical component under there. What is this and will it be in the way of cutting the hole for the shifter. ALSO, is there any recommendations on how to cut the hole and/or get proper measurments, etc. Probably some in the parts manual? Right? Lastly, on the clutch connection to the master cyclinder, the neutral safety wires (won't let you start the engine without the clutch in, I think) were cut. Should I leave them or connect them to something? IDK.


Oh almost forgot. is there an easy way to take the automatic shifter out without going crazy with a hacksaw. Shouldn't the be a pin somewhere in there? Thanks guys.

 

Air bag module, if it is mounted to the trans tunnel. And it won't be in the way. They are in the same place on all the trucks.

 

Yes, Its on the hump lol. And that's good. I didn't feel like messing with it. Thanks, HY

 

Should be a pivot pin for the shifter than you can just drive out. Keep in mind though, that there is a mechanism in there that locks the steering when it thinks it is in park. Be sure to disable that, or fix it in the unlocked position to avoid a truly rude surprise when you turn a corner. Can you get the column out of the manual trans parts donor? (careful with the air bag.)

To cut the hole, test fit JUST the trans, with the shifter removed, and mark the spot where it is going to be. Drill a hole up thru the bottom, to mark the center of where your hole needs to be. Measure it out up on top, and drill holes in the four corners of the shifter hole. Use a jigsaw to cut the hole. Make it a bit smaller than you think it really needs to be, and then, when you have the trans in place, you can make it larger if need be, so everything clears. Leave a bit of extra room, as the trans DOES move a bit under acceleration.

 

OUCH. That doesnt sound fun. No, I cant get the column but Ill try and disable it. How do I go about that?


And the way I was gonna try was to take the shifter boot that screws into the floor, transfer its dimensions to a piece of cardboard and use it as outline. Btw, why does it have two boots? One to keep dust from coming through the floor and one to keep it from coming in from the cab?

 

Might be a function of the ignition switch..... so, may not even be an issue. (I would most certainly TEST that theory though. (but I think that is indeed the case.) I think it may be more a problem of not being able to take the key out, if the mechanism doesn't think it is Park..... or some such.

Two boots is probably so it seals better. Sounds like your method will work though, so long as you can figger out where the correct spot to put it is. Or is the t-case, and trans shifter boots and such all one piece?