So I haven't pulled the exhaust and converter dust cover to verify, but I'm pretty sure I need to replace the core plugs in the back of the block. One day coolant just started spewing. Engine needs overhaul anyway, so I've got the heads off, and confirmed the leak is still there, spews along the dust cover from somewhere around the tranny, below the heads. If I'm not mistaken removing the cover isn't enough, I need to back the transmission off to get to the core plugs?

So wondering, since I don't want to buy a $300 tranny jack, anyone had any luck supporting with standard jack, and just rolling it backwards off the dowels?

Or anyone been able to get to the core plugs without disconnecting tranny? Or how far back do I need to get it?

Thanks

 

why by a tranny jack, go rent one for a few days. also i've seen a tranny jack adapter you can use on some jacks over at harbor frieght tools. you might want to check that out.

if your motor needs a rebuild, screw the tranny jack all together and just yank the motor. seems to me if you already have the heads off, yanking the motor should be a piece of cake.

how were you able to verify it's still leaking with the heads off?

 

I was looking for an adaptor, couldn't find one, I'll check out harbor freight.

I was contemplating pulling the whole motor, but I'd still have to remove the tranny, and if I pull it I would want to hone and re-ring it, and I just want to get it back on the road, with 130k miles the rings should be good for a while, worry about them in a couple of years :-) The top end is in bad shape gasket wise but the bottom looks fine.

I just added water into the block jacket (which was 1/2 empty, and nothing came out of the drivers side head), and it started spewing out of the tranny dust cover again. If its the plug, its gotta be completely gone, if its a crack in the block, its a big one!

If the block is cracked I'm buying a rebuilt motor, about $1500 from proformance/rock auto. Or $2000 if they won't take the core due to the crack. I'm going to remove the dust cover tonight and get a mirror in there so I can verify what is actually wrong. Hoping its the freeze plug of course.

-Dave

 

you can yank the motor with the tranny in place. just support it so it doesnt drop down when you yank the motor. my last motor swap was a 318 in a jeep GC and that's how I did it. just remember to mark the flex plate and TC so bolting it back up is easier... it only goes 1 way.

 

Yeah still have to pull it to get to the freeze plugs, however it would be easier off the vehicle... like I said I kinda want to get the top end done, which will probably end up giving more power and blowing the tranny anyway, lol. Most likely since the tools alone for a tranny rebuild will cost me like $500, I'm going to get it running and drop it off at a shop for a tranny rebuild when it starts going out, or buy a rebuilt one.

How much do these trannys weigh? I'm assuming at least 300 lbs or so, probably more like 500 or more with the xfer case and stuff?

-Dave

 

not sure how much they weigh since I've never had mine out.

advice to you on the heads... have them magnafluxed for cracks, and if there are none, get a good set of shorty headers on there... the heads tend to crack between the valve seats and I think (at least on my truck anyway) the heat back there by the #8 and #7 cylinders is too much for them. the headers will isolate the ports back there so the heat is more even across the head. my theory anyway...

a better way to go with the heads is to replace them with the r/t's.

 

Yeah for now I'm just tossing the heads back in, if it gets to the point they need to be reworked or replaced, I'll just buy a rebuilt engine, having the heads reworked is about $800 for both, rebuilt engine including heads is $1500....

Headers are sitting in the summit racing box in the garage already, since they cost 1/2 as much as new manifolds, its kind of a no brainer eh?

New cat, 02 sensors, and exhaust too. So much for getting a "cheap" beater truck.

-Dave