Couple questions which clutch kit would be the best for my driving needs.
I go off-road 20-30% of the time, some towing and a lot of highway.. have a 4" lift with 35s and 3.92/3.93 gearing can't remember what they are. Had aamco replace it 5 years ago, now it's going out again after 80,000 miles.
Also have access to lift and air tools, etc, basically a full shop. Any tools that are special to replace this? It's a hydraulic unit. What brands or specifically what kits are going to hold up ? Thank you!
2001 dodge ram 1500 sport 5.2l 4x4.

 

I just had mine replaced at 164k before it started slipping. The bearings were getting noisy. If you got 80k out of the replacement considering how you drive it and with huge tires, I'd say you are doing fine. Fancy performance clutches may hold power better but they are going to drive different and may not last any longer. Plus way more money.

 

Has anyone ever replaced the clutch themselves. Is it fairly easy that a garage mechanic can do it? And as far as replacement, some standard brands better than others?

 

If you have basic hand tools, it isn't too bad. having a jack for the trans is almost a requirement though..... even a half-decent floor jack will work.

 

I've got access to Mohawk lift and have a tall floor jack stand. Ive never done any transmission work before so it just makes me a little nervous. I remember the guys who did the clutch before me charged me 32.00 a qt for the oil because it was special from dodge.

 

Yeah, that oil is distilled from Unicorn hooves.....

Need to be able to lower the trans/t-case, and get them out of the way. If your big jackstand will let you do that, you should be ok.

Might need a clutch alignment tool..... some clutch kits actually come with it. (I just used a rod close to the right size, and eyeballed it.)

 

Shifting without the clutch will make it last longer. Some say it'll ruin the clutch or the synchros or you'll bend something, nope.. The PO of my truck who put ~90k miles on it, he told me he shifted without the clutch as much as possible. And for the past 20k I've done the same. Truck has 144k on the oem clutch.

And speaking of distilled unicorn hoove oil, I need change my trans fluid soon. The Pennzoil syncro-mesh you get at auto parts stores is much cheaper than the dealer stuff though.

 

If you don't know what you're doing, shifting without the clutch can be bad. There's no reason shifting with the clutch should have any appreciable difference in clutch life unless you're completely inept (I've ridden with some people who make me weep for their poor clutch). I suspect a big reason the OPs clutch wore out so quickly is the fact he's running 35s with 3.92 gears and also excessive slipping while off-road.

 

Yep riding the clutch off road will burn it up in short order

 

Centerforce makes a Stage 1 clutch for these trucks, anyone have any experiance with them? They advritise up to 30% more holding power while retaining near stock pedel feel. Looks like they do not come with a new throw out bearing (not uncommon).