subwoofer enclosure
#1
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I need some help building a sub enclosure because ive never built one before. My subs are 2 12" kicker comps and they dont really make them for 2 12's plus i want to build my own. If there is anyone that can give me some input on how to do it I would very much appreciate it! thanks
-Anthony-
-Anthony-
#2
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Well, I did my own for my 2001 Dakota. Now, the interior of the Ram is only bigger, not much difference between the two as far as how to go about it.
Here's a link to follow that will help you design a box if you want to go the route of hiding it under the rear seats....
Hope this helps some.
http://www.scunder.com/mike/Box/Box.html
As for dimensions and what have you, I cant give you them as I dont own a Ram. However, this should give you a better idea of what you can do and also help you figure out what all you will need. |3|ackAc|D did something very similar in his Ram, although his is the newer Generation model. Even still, He could potentially give you better measurement help.
Here's a link to follow that will help you design a box if you want to go the route of hiding it under the rear seats....
Hope this helps some.
http://www.scunder.com/mike/Box/Box.html
As for dimensions and what have you, I cant give you them as I dont own a Ram. However, this should give you a better idea of what you can do and also help you figure out what all you will need. |3|ackAc|D did something very similar in his Ram, although his is the newer Generation model. Even still, He could potentially give you better measurement help.
#3
#4
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Just finished installing mine last night. I have a single 10 that fits in the center console between the 2 front seats. I've got it firing down and then bolted the arm rest back on, so I still have storage space. You could definately fit one 12 in my size box, but not 2. Why would you ever need 2 12's in a truck anyway. I'm puttin 600W continuous and 1200W peak into that 10 and it hits hard and tight with the gain at 50%. Can't imagine needing anything else. Might want to consider sellin off one of the 12's and just bridging the amp and running the 12 at 1ohm. Just a thought.
#6
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some general measurements can be found for a two ten setup at www.hifisoundconnection.com i have their dual ten (NON THUNDERFOAM $HIT) box works really good with a 1100 watt peak amp powering both. VERY good thump. you could do some modifying and make it work.
#7
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Ok to hide 2 12's under your seat you need to lift the rear seat. This is not that hard as long as you have the proper tools and materials. Here is a website to reference on how to do it.
http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Riser.htm
Talk to GODRAMIT on the forums, he does fabrications and he might be able to do the seat rise brackets for you. The rear clips on the top of the seat are easy to make, just get some 1/4 wide by 1/8 thick staight iron, and bend it with a vise...
As for the box, you can look at what Jbenner did on that same website, Heres the link:
http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Subbox.htm
Now in that box he made it ported since he was running only 1 12", however, when your running a sealed box you dont need as much air space inside the box... I believe IIRC kicker comp 12's need like, 1.5 foot per sub, He was able to get 2.6 after the port... I would say before the port he would have around a 3 foot sealed box with a 4 inch seat riser. Just make a divider in the box.
Also noticed how he downfired that sub and faced it to the rear, This is a very good set up because the sound waves are able to bounce off something rigid, making it loud. Just make sure when building the box you do not make the sub so low that it hits the floor when it thumps... Or else it'll sound like crap and damage the speaker.. Use your Theiles Small Parameters the shouldve come with the subs, or look it up on the internet. It will give you the sealed box, 4th order bandpass specs, and ported box specs. It also gives ya the maximum excursion of the subwoofer (Which is NOT how far you can push the sub physically, but how far the sub will travel when under full power). This will give you an idea of how far to build the sub off the floor.
Hope this helps, let us know if you need anymore help.
EDIT: I know that my photo gallery doesnt have a box that I've built for this truck, it has a crappy box I threw together just for the time being. The only reason why i know how to do this is from experience in box building and lots of research. I plan on building a box soon, but the old lady keeps telling me "Its either speed or sound, not both" ... And shes right, I dont need all that weight weighing me down in the future... I dont plan on keeping that tool box on there in the long run, its just nice to keep my jack in there... Even tho I have one under the seat... A Floor jack is always easier to use than that factory jack.
http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Riser.htm
Talk to GODRAMIT on the forums, he does fabrications and he might be able to do the seat rise brackets for you. The rear clips on the top of the seat are easy to make, just get some 1/4 wide by 1/8 thick staight iron, and bend it with a vise...
As for the box, you can look at what Jbenner did on that same website, Heres the link:
http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Subbox.htm
Now in that box he made it ported since he was running only 1 12", however, when your running a sealed box you dont need as much air space inside the box... I believe IIRC kicker comp 12's need like, 1.5 foot per sub, He was able to get 2.6 after the port... I would say before the port he would have around a 3 foot sealed box with a 4 inch seat riser. Just make a divider in the box.
Also noticed how he downfired that sub and faced it to the rear, This is a very good set up because the sound waves are able to bounce off something rigid, making it loud. Just make sure when building the box you do not make the sub so low that it hits the floor when it thumps... Or else it'll sound like crap and damage the speaker.. Use your Theiles Small Parameters the shouldve come with the subs, or look it up on the internet. It will give you the sealed box, 4th order bandpass specs, and ported box specs. It also gives ya the maximum excursion of the subwoofer (Which is NOT how far you can push the sub physically, but how far the sub will travel when under full power). This will give you an idea of how far to build the sub off the floor.
Hope this helps, let us know if you need anymore help.
EDIT: I know that my photo gallery doesnt have a box that I've built for this truck, it has a crappy box I threw together just for the time being. The only reason why i know how to do this is from experience in box building and lots of research. I plan on building a box soon, but the old lady keeps telling me "Its either speed or sound, not both" ... And shes right, I dont need all that weight weighing me down in the future... I dont plan on keeping that tool box on there in the long run, its just nice to keep my jack in there... Even tho I have one under the seat... A Floor jack is always easier to use than that factory jack.
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#8
#9
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Here is another link that might help... http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Riser.htm
#10
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ORIGINAL: Chopper1
Here is another link that might help... http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Riser.htm
Here is another link that might help... http://home.insightbb.com/~jbenner/Riser.htm