5.2L engine

Gonna have to oil pan off. Its seeping from around the edges so just thought i would replace it while the timing chain cover is off too.

The rear main seal drips oil very very slowly, I would estimate 1/4 to 1/2 cup of oil every 3000miles. Just wondered if it was worth the trouble, or leave it be.
Although it would be nice to be completely leak free.

 

Yes.

Remove bearing cap after loosening next closest cap seal will slide out. Use a plastic poker to start it. Lube the new one with oil and slide in without shaving any of the seal. Gently tighten that second cap, followed by the first. Torque 2nd, then 1st, to spec.

Consider an oil pump, they are inexpensive.

 

Add to that just a dab (I mean tiny dab) of silicone caulk on the ends of the seal along with a light (LIGHT) smear of silicone caulk across the face of the main cap.

The areas are noted in blue.

It isn't necessary to use the high dollar anaerobic sealant. Just allow 24 hours for the silicone to set before adding oil.

 

+1 on the oil pump. Replace it and the pickup tube as well, why risk having to tear it all down again. Make sure you use the good rubber Felpro pan gasket.

Also, when you put in the new rear main seal, offset it by about a 1/4" so the mating points of the upper and lower seals are in the bearing caps. Don't forget to put a drop of blue Loctite on each side of the bearing cap surface prior to bolting it back on to the crank. And a little RTV in the corners where the pan gasket will meet up with the rear bearing cap.

I just got done doing this job on my 5.2L and the rear main on this motor is known to leak where the two halves of the seal join. The packaging for the new seal also recommended this. My truck hasn't leaked a drop since I finished the job, replaced my pump and pickup tube while I was in there. Look on Rockauto.com, I got the Melling high volume pump for mine.

A tip for when you reinstall the pan and gasket, use some fishing line and tie up the corners of the gasket to the pan to make it easier to install. The service manual also recommends getting 4 5/16" x 1 1/2" bolts and cutting the heads off and cutting a slot for a screwdriver to act as aligning dowels. Screw one into each corner of the block to help you align the pan/gasket combo.

Look up the pavementsucks.com article for the 318/360 motor for more info on this job.

Good luck!

 

Ok, im gonna get a oil pump and new pickup tube. Miswell while its apart.

The first picture in the post above yours where the blue lines are along the edges. Is that where you put the loctite? What does that do? Are you supposed to use it on the bolts too? Is there a chance of the bolts coming loose if you torque them, but dont use loctite on the bolts. Red or Blue loctite on the bolts? Bolts aren't TTY are they? So many questions. Thanks

 

tssiTanker,

The loctite forms a seal and prevents leaking in that area. You can use blue loctite on the bolts if it gives you peace of mind. Just a little goes a long way. I reused my bolts with no problems.
You can get plastic alignment pins to hold your gasket and pan. A guy gave me mine, not sure where to get them.

One other thing...This is not a difficult job. Take your time and have the service manual handy. If you have any trouble getting the pan out, disconnect steering stabilizer, sway bar and lower shock mounts

 

This link is the answer to all of your questions:

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-31.html

 

Re-read my post. The blue lines are for the silicone sealant. The Locktite is for the main bolts.

 

Don't, don't, don't use red locktite anywhere on the engine. Locktite makes a gasket maker that is red in color that should be used on the rear main cap. I believe the part number is something like 475?(someone help with the correct number). Regular red locktite will have you cursing in a whole bunch of new languages if you ever need to remove what you put it on. User rtv and that gasket maker stuff on the rms where the people have shown you already. Blue locktite is great for secure feelings, red will upset you a lot later on. By the way, the cap bolts aren't TTY's.

 

+1 for the fishing line trick and replacing your oil pump. high volume pump could cause you problems unless you've modified your engine quite a bit and need the extra pressure, otherwise you might be finding that you have new oil leaks in new places that weren't designed for the additional pressure.