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Truck squeeks

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Old 06-01-2014, 01:07 PM
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Default Truck squeeks

Hi, havnt been on here for awhile, I have a 2000 1500, ext. cab with 318. I bought this truck new Dec 99. its been a great truck and I want to keep it. But in the last coule of months the front end has started sqeeking, more so when going slow and turning, like parking. Any body give me a typical cause for this. I am almost always at work so even if I have it fixed at a shop I like to have some idea what I am talking about. Thx
 
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:31 PM
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2 or 4 wheel drive?
 
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Old 06-01-2014, 01:40 PM
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Sory bout that it is 2 wheel drive. Most of the time I do my own work just havnt had any time lately
 
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:18 PM
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Probably ball joints, maybe brakes getting thin.
 
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:23 PM
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I know the brakes are very thin, having pads replaced this week, will that cause sqeaking???
 
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Old 06-01-2014, 02:32 PM
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Yeah, there are wear sensors on the pads. (at least, there should be..... ) when you turn, it kinda torques things around, and they may make contact. But, that would squeak as long as the side load existed. if it only squeaks as the wheels are turning, and stops, (and then squeaks some more when you straighten out) that's prolly ball joints. Got grease fittings on anything under there? If ya do, hit 'em with a grease gun. See if things get quieter.
 
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Old 06-10-2014, 04:06 AM
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I also have a 2000 Ram 1500 with the 2-wheel drive and squeeking/creaking to beat all hell. Definitely more noticeable when its dry outside...quieter when high humidity or when raining. Apparently thats a common problem for us and what's even more fun is there are no grease fittings that apply to the ball joints [not much to grease period under there]. But I did find out that the noise is worn ball joints [or missing boots]. Let me know how it works out for you.
 
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:15 PM
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Had all 4 balljoints replaced, stablizer rod/link (I think have to look) and alighnment. $960 later no more squeaks drives like new. I asked the mechanic that did it how was it getting those rivets out, he said next time he will charge twice the labor. He charged me 5 hours for labor, took him at least 9 (and alot of cussing accordind to his fellow employees). Thats when I told him when he quoted $850 just for the ball joints, I said have at it. So I am happy with it, rather pay $850 and work a weekend than do that job.
 
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Old 06-27-2014, 03:32 PM
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Those rivets aren't too hard to remove with the proper tools. Using an air hammer with a hardened chisel and a punch makes short work of them. Definitely makes the job of removing ball joint rivets a few minute job vs. several hours. See for yourself here:

 
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Old 06-28-2014, 11:51 AM
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I drill them down a bit, knock the heads off with an air hammer/chisel bit, use a punch to drive them out. About 15 minutes per joint.
 



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