4.88's for 9.25" / D44 and Where to Buy + Crush Sleeve Eliminator?
#11
I'm running 4.88 for last few years.
Use them on the highway and off road. RPM doesn't seem too high, even when doing 80mph.
Got them from Yukon when were making them.
#1 Chry 9.25 YES, you have to shave part of the ring tooth out to fit cross pin.
#2 Chry 9.25 do not need carrier. Carrier will hold everything up to 4.88 which is max what this axle ever had.
#3 Dana 44. Can use stock carrier. However you need thick gear.
#4 Dana 44. Need to shave corner of ring tooth as well.
When you shave/cut (remove) part of the ring gear tooth to fit cross pin, it does not interfere with tooth bearing surface/pattern. This is a common practice and does not adversely affect bearing of the axle.
Use them on the highway and off road. RPM doesn't seem too high, even when doing 80mph.
Got them from Yukon when were making them.
#1 Chry 9.25 YES, you have to shave part of the ring tooth out to fit cross pin.
#2 Chry 9.25 do not need carrier. Carrier will hold everything up to 4.88 which is max what this axle ever had.
#3 Dana 44. Can use stock carrier. However you need thick gear.
#4 Dana 44. Need to shave corner of ring tooth as well.
When you shave/cut (remove) part of the ring gear tooth to fit cross pin, it does not interfere with tooth bearing surface/pattern. This is a common practice and does not adversely affect bearing of the axle.
Cool, thanks for the PN's and confirmation on the shaving. Do you happen to know if tooth shaving is required if a 3.92 and up carrier is purchased for the D44 and a regular (non-thick) set of gears is used? I'd much rather spend a bit extra and avoid shaving altogether if that's the case.
Also, just curious as to how you find the performance with the 4.88's around town and on the highway.
I put a Ratech solid spacer in my 9.25. Pinion preload is set with shims. Piece of cake really, and you don't have to deal with that crush sleeve. Only thing I've heard about anyone having any problems with is that every once in a while you can get a combination of shims where one shim isn't quite enough, and the next thickness is too much. The solution is to hone the solid spacer down .001" on a piece of wet-dry sandpaper. It happens, but isn't common. I had no problems with mine.
#12
That is correct. If you get new carrier and use non thick gear, you do NOT need to shave any metal.
As far as driving goes. My truck is not my daily drive. I use it on the weekends and to go camping.
On the street you get a lot more pick-up-and-go. It does not take "forever" to keep up with fast flowing traffic. On the highway I can drive 75-80mph @ 2600rpm. Definitely 35" tire is minimum with this gear. I'm eventually will try larger tire, but need some time to tear through this set.
As far as driving goes. My truck is not my daily drive. I use it on the weekends and to go camping.
On the street you get a lot more pick-up-and-go. It does not take "forever" to keep up with fast flowing traffic. On the highway I can drive 75-80mph @ 2600rpm. Definitely 35" tire is minimum with this gear. I'm eventually will try larger tire, but need some time to tear through this set.
#13
That is correct. If you get new carrier and use non thick gear, you do NOT need to shave any metal.
As far as driving goes. My truck is not my daily drive. I use it on the weekends and to go camping.
On the street you get a lot more pick-up-and-go. It does not take "forever" to keep up with fast flowing traffic. On the highway I can drive 75-80mph @ 2600rpm. Definitely 35" tire is minimum with this gear. I'm eventually will try larger tire, but need some time to tear through this set.
As far as driving goes. My truck is not my daily drive. I use it on the weekends and to go camping.
On the street you get a lot more pick-up-and-go. It does not take "forever" to keep up with fast flowing traffic. On the highway I can drive 75-80mph @ 2600rpm. Definitely 35" tire is minimum with this gear. I'm eventually will try larger tire, but need some time to tear through this set.
I could go 4.10 to get very close to stock, but I want a better hole shot and I'm happy with the RPM's that 4.56 put me at on the highway (I drive like an old man anyway). Not to mention 4.56 gears are way more plentiful and cheaper than 4.88's.
I'll also be going with notched cross pins front and rear. I realize the strength is a bit compromised however I am really opposed to grinding down a ring gear tooth despite how "common" it is. The truck is mostly a street queen / toy hauler so I'm never doing anything crazy with it.
I'll be ordering the parts in a few weeks and fabbing a case spreader for the D44, so I'll probably post up some pics in a month or 2 when I get around to it
#14
I'm doing the exact same thing as you man. But I'm putting a Detroit TruTrac in the rear too when I make the shop do my gears.
But after you figure everything you need out, you should post links to everything you need here to do the install in Dana 44/9.25 axles. I'm also not switching axles.
But after you figure everything you need out, you should post links to everything you need here to do the install in Dana 44/9.25 axles. I'm also not switching axles.
#15
I'm doing the exact same thing as you man. But I'm putting a Detroit TruTrac in the rear too when I make the shop do my gears.
But after you figure everything you need out, you should post links to everything you need here to do the install in Dana 44/9.25 axles. I'm also not switching axles.
But after you figure everything you need out, you should post links to everything you need here to do the install in Dana 44/9.25 axles. I'm also not switching axles.
But so far my shopping list is as follows:
Chrysler 9.25":
-USA Standard Ring & Pinion Part # ZGC925456; 4.56 ratio (Rock Auto) - $178.17
-Motive Gear R925RMK Master Install Kit w/ Koyo Bearings (Summit) - $89.97
Dana 44:
-USA Standard Ring & Pinion Part # ZGD44456T "Thick" Gear Set; 4.56 ratio (Rock Auto) - $136.51
-Ratech 122K Minor Install Kit (Summit) - $44.97
Grand total $467 shipped (CDN). I think that's pretty damn good for a gear swap. Threw in a couple axle seals on blowout at rock auto just in case. I also have decided I'll just use the crush sleeve instead of the eliminator kit. Just doing a minor install on the front as the truck has low miles, bearings should be fine, and nobody has dicked with it yet. Also found they don't make notched cross pins for the trac-lock carrier or the D44. Only notched cross pin available is for an open diff, which has 0.010" smaller diameter than the trac-lock does. Guess i'll bite the bullet and grind the teeth. Will probably order everything tomorrow
Last edited by oxymoron29; 07-10-2014 at 12:54 AM.
#16
When I did my gear swap to 4.56 it cost me roughly $1350 CDN but that was with a d44 trutrac limited slip carrier, 4.56 gears, installation kits and shipping. Shipping alone was almost $300. I did all the work myself so what I paid for the limited slip I would've had to pay a shop.
Since you mentioned it, I recommend changing axle seals while doing a gear swap. Highly recommended...
Since you mentioned it, I recommend changing axle seals while doing a gear swap. Highly recommended...
#17
When I did my gear swap to 4.56 it cost me roughly $1350 CDN but that was with a d44 trutrac limited slip carrier, 4.56 gears, installation kits and shipping. Shipping alone was almost $300. I did all the work myself so what I paid for the limited slip I would've had to pay a shop.
Since you mentioned it, I recommend changing axle seals while doing a gear swap. Highly recommended...
Since you mentioned it, I recommend changing axle seals while doing a gear swap. Highly recommended...
BTW, I thought you said your truck came with 4.56's when you bought it?
#18
Beauty of being semi-close to the border means I can make a jaunt across and avoid paying import charges and all that BS. I looked into doing axle seals on the D44 and it looks like a PITA to do the outers. I'll probably leave them and be extra gingerly taking out and replacing the axles since they aren't leaking.
BTW, I thought you said your truck came with 4.56's when you bought it?
BTW, I thought you said your truck came with 4.56's when you bought it?
#19
Beauty of being semi-close to the border means I can make a jaunt across and avoid paying import charges and all that BS. I looked into doing axle seals on the D44 and it looks like a PITA to do the outers. I'll probably leave them and be extra gingerly taking out and replacing the axles since they aren't leaking.
BTW, I thought you said your truck came with 4.56's when you bought it?
BTW, I thought you said your truck came with 4.56's when you bought it?
Don't think I said that but if I did it was a mistake. Truck came with 3.55 gears. Wasn't tooooo bad with 33s. It was manageable. But the second I went with 35s and heavier deep dish rims, I wasn't able to stay in OD on a straight stretch...
#20
Yeah that would be handy. I buy most of my mods from summit if I can. With smaller, lighter and cheaper objects the shipping is usually like $50. Haven't found a place in Canada yet that can match the price of summit, even with shipping costs. I highly recommend doing the front axle seals during a gear swap. To go back and do it you have to remove the carrier again. Trust me, mines leaking...
Don't think I said that but if I did it was a mistake. Truck came with 3.55 gears. Wasn't tooooo bad with 33s. It was manageable. But the second I went with 35s and heavier deep dish rims, I wasn't able to stay in OD on a straight stretch...
Don't think I said that but if I did it was a mistake. Truck came with 3.55 gears. Wasn't tooooo bad with 33s. It was manageable. But the second I went with 35s and heavier deep dish rims, I wasn't able to stay in OD on a straight stretch...
Just ordered all the goods yesterday afternoon. Threw in front seals too, will probably do the drivers in the carrier but the passenger one near the CAD worries me. Apparently a rig with a 2" hole saw with the teeth cut off and a length of threaded rod will press the thing in there so we'll see. Not looking forward to doing the D44 at all