ok then it idles normal...8 hundred to 12 hundred but when you apply throttle it jumps up to ...whatever you have it set to rpm?

 

Adobedude, thanks for the input. The 300hp number is one I pulled out of the air cuz I really didn't know. Someday I'll have to get it dyno'd just so I can be depressed about all the cash I spent for nothing when I could have just bolted on an SC at the start and been done with it (or opted for the V10).

I based my guess on thinking the stock rwhp was 245 and torque was 335. After searching this evening I now realize/recall that those #'s are at the crank. Yes, depressing.

So I wasn't trying to embellish the numbers, just got some key facts wrong I guess. Thanks for setting me straight. ;o)

 

The internet is what depressed me...Then I posted up my time slips on a Dakota forum and everyone was saying something's wrong, you should be faster...
That was years ago, now I know, the track is at 5400', DA is always over 7000' at best, at sea level my Dakota would be running mid 10s...All motor, but I ain't moving.

 

What are you running on your Ram in terms of a converter? Is that stock or aftermarket? I have heard various torque converter manufacturers and transmission parts tech guys claim stock stall on the 46RE with the 360 is anywhere from 1600 to 2200. It's all over the board when it comes to getting a straight answer which makes it difficult to judge where the replacement converter should be as your point of reference is a moving target. Any advise on that?

I've had several converter techs tell me my new converter's stall should be in the 22-2500 range based on my Cam. Then this evening I spoke with someone who is a highly respected in this area and he suggested an RV converter which moves my stall in the opposite direction compared to what most of the other guys have told me. He said lowering my stall should help improve my low-end response (or lack thereof). Precision's RV converter puts me at 400rpms under stock which, according to Precision, is 1600. If that is true, that puts the RV stall at 12-1300 per the Precision tech. I just wish I could get a consistent answer on the logic behind all of this. Especially the stuff like stock stall and baseline logic of whether I need a lower or higher stall. I get that dialing in the best stall is a science considering mods, use, etc. The baseline logic seems like it would be well known / straight forward.

At the end of the day, I could just stick with a stock stall (if I knew what that really was) but I was hoping to take some advantage of having to replace it by possibly adjusting the stall to best accommodate my mods.

 

I also run JBA jet coated shorty headers that I found used in like-new condition off my local craigslist. They fit nicely and look great. They fit much nicer than the Pacesetter shorty headers I had on the truck prior to the JBAs.

 

I was considering a high stall converter too but after a lot of research and getting lots af advise was talked out of it. Decided to get the PNH low stall. I'm very happy with it, my stall sits around 1600-1800 now instead of 2000-2200. I roasted my transmission last summer a couple times and wasn't even towing, feels better knowing there's less heat being produced. Drivability actually felt a little tighter and responsive. Glad I went low stall.

 

beeker, when you say you are using the PNH low stall, is that the 5444LS?