Its a minor leak. I'll leave it alone for now.

I'm looking around for an all included front end kit (ball joints, tie rods, end links, bushings, etc) and not finding one. If someone knows of one, feel free to post, otherwise I'll buy everything individually.

Thanks again for replies.

 

Isn't there a thread somewhere for an upgrade to cross-over steering for the D44? I seem to remember something along those lines...... since he is replacing everything, this would be a perfect opportunity to have better, more reliable steering.

 

take a look at the pitman arm too. I had a lot of "give" with my steering wheel. I didn't want to use my trailer with that much give in the wheel, so I had a friend come over and while we were doing other stuff on the truck, i crawled under and he moved the steering wheel. My pitman arm was shot. Purchased one at Auto Zone for $30. Couldn't get the leverage to get it off myself, but found a decent shop to install it for me. Paid $100 for a used tire mounted and pitman arm install. They of course tried to tell me that my ball joints were bad, but I knew they weren't since I just checked them. The "give" is completely gone in the steering wheel now.

 

How did determine a chunk of metal was bad?

 

where the pitman arm attaches to the steering rod...that bushing was completely gone and when the steering wheel turned, so did the pitman arm. a lot.

 

I noticed the alignment bar is not in position on this one and non existent on the other adjustment (closer to the driver side tire). I tested the ball joints today and they seem fine. Maybe I just need to get everything aligned.

 

Good on you for being safe.

That is a decent plan to tackle the front steering components.

Knowing what I know now and being in your position of things, my suggestions would be:

1. Leave the axle leak for now, b/c it's still driveable. Can always pull diff plug and check level, which nominal is right to below plug.

2. You checked ball joints from previous post, at least to an extent you're ok with them at this point. If they are a problem, then they'll show it in a progressive manner, usually.

3. Tie rod ends can be obtained from most auto parts stores. Like NAPA. However, get a grease gun first and lube them up.

4. Sway bar links can be the last resort as long as not binding. Otherwise they are roughly a $25 each per Napa.

5. Main items to check are the track bar. Typical issue is at the frame side. That joint is a TRE style. Find the torque spec and lock it down for starters. Same for axle side.

6. From your previous post picture does not work. Most likely clicked unintended link. I found some of your images, so maybe you mean one of these, which are the drag link adjusters

this one at wheel and usually does not have alignment bar to my knowledge



this at the pitman arm

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Condition of the above is typical and nothing stands out as an issue just by those pictures.

7. Age of shocks?

 

Yep, those are the correct pictures. I thought the alignment bar had to be between and held in place by those two brackets?

The shocks seems worn out to me, I bounce the front end a few times then let go and it bounces a few more before settling. Is there a better way to test? Or just replace those suckers, I know they are old.

Ok, those for the feedback and posting the correct pics for me. I still not sure whats wrong with my pic links.

I'm hoping to tear into this this weekend and will post pictures.

 

If they are old, just replace 'em. Gotta torque the lower mounting bolts to something stupid, like 110 ft/lbs though. So, keep that in mind.

 

If you're going to do ball joints, consider replacing the axle seals. You'll have almost everything removed anyway. You can unbolt the ring gear, pull it out, and put it back in as long as you keep the shims, bearing cups and caps on the same side as when you remove it. IF YOU MIX UP THE SHIMS the backlash will be wrong. It was a little challenge to get the ring gear and shims started back into the housing. I made a seal driver.

I don't know your skill level, budget, what tools you have, or what you plan to use the truck for. I'm not saying you should attempt this. I just wanted to point out it can be done at home.

If you hire some one to change them, consider having them do the ball joints and u-joints also. Otherwise you'll be tearing it all apart twice. Maybe consider running some Lucas additive. If the leak is small it might stop it.

Whatever you do with the seal, I would do the ball joints, u-joints, and wheel bearings (if needed). Then move on to the tie rod, drag link, and track bar. Now with all the worn parts replaced, align it. I think the only thing adjustable is the toe in and the drag link centers the steering wheel. Then I'd do shocks and finally the sway bar links and bushings. What condition is the steering box?