Engine build suggestions
Okay, it has been a couple years or more since I have been on here but glad to be back. Ive got my 95 ram 1500 5.2L v8 pushing almost 190000 hard Alaskan miles. Its time this spring to build up the motor a bit (freshen it up).
Ive got some questions. First.. any real life experience with the aftermarket intake manifolds (M1/airgap) Ive searched the threads and seen some serious dislikes with the hughes. Im also curious as to whats all involved in adapting the Hughes to match the 94-95 OBD1 set ups as claimed. Keep in mind this is a mild build and only want a bit more pep in its step through the power band. While also keeping daily driver status through icy winters. Im thinking a nice solid torque cam (no computer mods needed but will have a mopar pcm)
Also going with a cloyes double roller, some nice 1.6 ratio ROLLER rockers (brand suggestions), heads are still a toss up, probably iron performance heads if needed. I already run a newish Melling high volume oil pump, headers and exhaust goodies all the way back, a nice solid PATC trans build (rated for much more than I will throw at it ... ever), and msd wires, accel coil, and good quality brass cap/rotor. I also do have a fastman 50mm TB and a K&N CAI
Please don't mention re gear. I have 3.55's. I want 4.10's. The motor however is starting to fade so it gets priority.
As a bonus I need a new transmission crossmember as mine is dinged up. Any suggestions besides a junkyard to find a non-bent one?
Thanks again for comments and I always seem to get good response here.
Ive got some questions. First.. any real life experience with the aftermarket intake manifolds (M1/airgap) Ive searched the threads and seen some serious dislikes with the hughes. Im also curious as to whats all involved in adapting the Hughes to match the 94-95 OBD1 set ups as claimed. Keep in mind this is a mild build and only want a bit more pep in its step through the power band. While also keeping daily driver status through icy winters. Im thinking a nice solid torque cam (no computer mods needed but will have a mopar pcm)
Also going with a cloyes double roller, some nice 1.6 ratio ROLLER rockers (brand suggestions), heads are still a toss up, probably iron performance heads if needed. I already run a newish Melling high volume oil pump, headers and exhaust goodies all the way back, a nice solid PATC trans build (rated for much more than I will throw at it ... ever), and msd wires, accel coil, and good quality brass cap/rotor. I also do have a fastman 50mm TB and a K&N CAI
Please don't mention re gear. I have 3.55's. I want 4.10's. The motor however is starting to fade so it gets priority.
As a bonus I need a new transmission crossmember as mine is dinged up. Any suggestions besides a junkyard to find a non-bent one?
Thanks again for comments and I always seem to get good response here.
I'd go with the Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers if you get new rockers.
I've got a pair of the 2.02 Clearwater/Odessa EQ Heads in the Classifieds section. There is a link to it in my sig. PM me if interested.
I've got a pair of the 2.02 Clearwater/Odessa EQ Heads in the Classifieds section. There is a link to it in my sig. PM me if interested.
Compression test I agree. My next available time I will do it. Ill pass on the heads but thanks for the offer! Harland sharps seem to be pretty nice. I was gonna get the non adjustable 1.7's however if I swapped the cam that would seem irrelevant.
Also no on the 5.9. I know its got a bit more power and is capable of more but ive personally seen the 318 go and then some while the 5.9 's ive encountered seem to have bit the dust a bit earlier. IMO I think the 5.2 has a higher durability. Its done things I could or would not expect it to do. Love the engine. And I also don't want to screw with the computer modifications if any to swap. Still a really solid idea though
Still curious on a cross member.?
One more thing. Ive got a very distinct tick in my motor. Thinking passenger side. Its not an exhaust leak. Could it be a lifter? Valve? Rocker arm? What makes that sound but dosent affect driveability? It runs smooth and dosent appeare to misfire. You don't fully hear it until it warms up. Maybe from the oil pressure lowering once reaching normal operating temp. It does it faintly when accelerating but mostly when idling, crusing at low rpm's and deceleration. Consistent with engine rpm's. The motor does not shudder or jerk. Its actually smooth considering. But the tick... its much more prominent than a dodge tick
Also no on the 5.9. I know its got a bit more power and is capable of more but ive personally seen the 318 go and then some while the 5.9 's ive encountered seem to have bit the dust a bit earlier. IMO I think the 5.2 has a higher durability. Its done things I could or would not expect it to do. Love the engine. And I also don't want to screw with the computer modifications if any to swap. Still a really solid idea though
Still curious on a cross member.?
One more thing. Ive got a very distinct tick in my motor. Thinking passenger side. Its not an exhaust leak. Could it be a lifter? Valve? Rocker arm? What makes that sound but dosent affect driveability? It runs smooth and dosent appeare to misfire. You don't fully hear it until it warms up. Maybe from the oil pressure lowering once reaching normal operating temp. It does it faintly when accelerating but mostly when idling, crusing at low rpm's and deceleration. Consistent with engine rpm's. The motor does not shudder or jerk. Its actually smooth considering. But the tick... its much more prominent than a dodge tick
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Might be the vapor purge solenoid.
Since you're staying with your 5.2 then stay away from the large valve heads.
Because you have a OBD 1 ECM you need to be careful what you do to your engine or your computer won't handle it. Ask snowboundrmk about that.
Air Gap or M1? I'm a Air Gap owner and still stand by that purchase. My main thing is that a Air Gap is a dual plane intake and a M1 is a single plane. Now I know what works on other engines doesn't always work on our engines but I am sticking with the Hughes intake. Now as for not wanting to swap out your 5.2 for a 5.9 I see where you're coming from but if you're building the engine then you dictate how good or bad the engine turns out to be. And as for computer issues if you're swapping to a 5.9 get the one from the engine donor. Your other option is to contact B&G Chrysler and they can reflash your computer for either the 5.2 or 5.9.
Because you have a OBD 1 ECM you need to be careful what you do to your engine or your computer won't handle it. Ask snowboundrmk about that.
Air Gap or M1? I'm a Air Gap owner and still stand by that purchase. My main thing is that a Air Gap is a dual plane intake and a M1 is a single plane. Now I know what works on other engines doesn't always work on our engines but I am sticking with the Hughes intake. Now as for not wanting to swap out your 5.2 for a 5.9 I see where you're coming from but if you're building the engine then you dictate how good or bad the engine turns out to be. And as for computer issues if you're swapping to a 5.9 get the one from the engine donor. Your other option is to contact B&G Chrysler and they can reflash your computer for either the 5.2 or 5.9.
Good to know ill check those items. I did not know B&G can flash for even engine swaps but makes sense. Definitely food for thought. Vapor purge solenoid? I think most of my emissions are removed and EGR plate blocked. It was that way when I bought it years ago. Doing some digging I found an old mechanic that is a 30 year dodge guru so I might have him build me up a motor if I can. I figured I wouldn't be able to tell what it is with out tearing into the top end. Thanks for the input guys.
However to reply one the crossmember mine is a 4X4. I have not yet found a site that offers this and I just don't much trust the local junkyards. I also hear they can be a monster to replace after 20 years of sitting in place so ill just pay a shop to do that job.
However to reply one the crossmember mine is a 4X4. I have not yet found a site that offers this and I just don't much trust the local junkyards. I also hear they can be a monster to replace after 20 years of sitting in place so ill just pay a shop to do that job.











