Popping Codes Like Candy
#1
Popping Codes Like Candy
I plugged up my new scanner today to see if it still showed the P1294 "target idle not reached" and to find out what my RPMs were. I decided to clear the code and rescan. I got 4 codes. WHAT!? I know I need to replace the front shocks, possibly ball joints, but I thought the engine was running well. Guess not. I'm not sure what these mean guys. Can I get someone to help explain what this data means and what I need to do?
P1294 - Target Idle Not Reached
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire
P0300 - Cylinder 1 misfire
P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire
Then I took a snapshot of my real-time readings and I have listed them below. What makes a cylinder misfire? Again, I don't understand all of the categories and answers below, nor whether they are OK or bad. A little info would be greatly appreciated.
FUELSYSL: CL
LOAD_PCT(%): 19.6
ECT: 185
SHRTFT1 (%): 0.0
LONGFT1 (%): -5.5
MAP PSI: 6.4
RPM: 768
SPARKAVG: 1.5 (during "real time" would fluctuate from 1.0 to 1.5 to 2.0)
IAT: 158
02SLOC: B1S12--B2S
02B1S1(V): 0.840
SHRTFTB1S1 (%): -0.8 (fluctuated to +1.6)
SHRTB1S2: N/A
P1294 - Target Idle Not Reached
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire
P0300 - Cylinder 1 misfire
P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire
Then I took a snapshot of my real-time readings and I have listed them below. What makes a cylinder misfire? Again, I don't understand all of the categories and answers below, nor whether they are OK or bad. A little info would be greatly appreciated.
FUELSYSL: CL
LOAD_PCT(%): 19.6
ECT: 185
SHRTFT1 (%): 0.0
LONGFT1 (%): -5.5
MAP PSI: 6.4
RPM: 768
SPARKAVG: 1.5 (during "real time" would fluctuate from 1.0 to 1.5 to 2.0)
IAT: 158
02SLOC: B1S12--B2S
02B1S1(V): 0.840
SHRTFTB1S1 (%): -0.8 (fluctuated to +1.6)
SHRTB1S2: N/A
#2
Fuel system in closed loop.
~20 engine load. (easy cruising)
Engine temp is 185. (got a 180 thermostat in there?)
Short term fuel trim 1: 0 No correction.
Long term fuel trim 1: it's shortening pulse width by 5.5%, so, open loop, the engine runs just a tad rich.
MAP Manifold pressure. 6.4 something other, might be PSI, might be KPa.... not sure which.
RPM self explanatory.
SparkAFG: not sure.
IAT: intake air temp is 158 degrees.
O2B1S1: .84 volts, that should fluctuate dramatically from 0 to 1 volt while you watch. If not, O2 sensor is bad.
Short term fuel trim based on sensor 1: -.8. Shortens pulse width a tad more. No worries, doing what it is supposed to, provided the sensor is actually working right.
Next one would be for sensor 2, post cat, apparently, your PCM doesn't care about that one.
random misfires are usually due to blown plenum, or old ignition parts. (cap, rotor, wires, plugs) Given that yours are all on the same side, I would have a look at the plug wires, and how they are routed. (there is a TSB for that in the FAQ section)
Target idle could be a false code, due to the misfiring.
Misfires can be cause by too much/not enough fuel, fouled plugs, leaking/old/misrouted plug wires, corroded terminals in the cap, etc. Even a weak/bad coil, or failing crank position sensor.
If the plenum hasn't been fixed, do that first, and then run a can of seafoam thru the brake booster vacuum line. (helps clean out all the carbon that resulted from sucking oil in from the intake. )
~20 engine load. (easy cruising)
Engine temp is 185. (got a 180 thermostat in there?)
Short term fuel trim 1: 0 No correction.
Long term fuel trim 1: it's shortening pulse width by 5.5%, so, open loop, the engine runs just a tad rich.
MAP Manifold pressure. 6.4 something other, might be PSI, might be KPa.... not sure which.
RPM self explanatory.
SparkAFG: not sure.
IAT: intake air temp is 158 degrees.
O2B1S1: .84 volts, that should fluctuate dramatically from 0 to 1 volt while you watch. If not, O2 sensor is bad.
Short term fuel trim based on sensor 1: -.8. Shortens pulse width a tad more. No worries, doing what it is supposed to, provided the sensor is actually working right.
Next one would be for sensor 2, post cat, apparently, your PCM doesn't care about that one.
random misfires are usually due to blown plenum, or old ignition parts. (cap, rotor, wires, plugs) Given that yours are all on the same side, I would have a look at the plug wires, and how they are routed. (there is a TSB for that in the FAQ section)
Target idle could be a false code, due to the misfiring.
Misfires can be cause by too much/not enough fuel, fouled plugs, leaking/old/misrouted plug wires, corroded terminals in the cap, etc. Even a weak/bad coil, or failing crank position sensor.
If the plenum hasn't been fixed, do that first, and then run a can of seafoam thru the brake booster vacuum line. (helps clean out all the carbon that resulted from sucking oil in from the intake. )
#3
Thanks Hey You. From your descriptions, it sounds like everything is running fairly normal. That's a good thing.
I just did the plenum, and replaced the plugs (with good ol copper) and wires. I didn't replace the distributor cap or rotor. How do I tell if that's the issue without blindly replacing it and hoping it works right? Or in this case, is that what I should do? I can check the wire routing...a friend printed it out of All Data for me. I should have replaced the distributor while doing the plenum, but didn't think about it until putting it back together and at that point, was just ready for the project to be over with.
I just did the plenum, and replaced the plugs (with good ol copper) and wires. I didn't replace the distributor cap or rotor. How do I tell if that's the issue without blindly replacing it and hoping it works right? Or in this case, is that what I should do? I can check the wire routing...a friend printed it out of All Data for me. I should have replaced the distributor while doing the plenum, but didn't think about it until putting it back together and at that point, was just ready for the project to be over with.
#5