Hey guys, I was just wondering, I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 sport with a 3 in rough country suspension lift. When I put 315/75r16s on, they rubbed. So I put 1.5" wheel spacers on and they didn't rub. Then I switched to a 10in wide wheel, and they rub the sheet metal on the back of the fender with or without the spacers. If I switched to longer control arms, would it move the axle far enough forward to make them quit rubbing? I hate driving it like that, but I don't really want a bigger lift. I didn't know if it would help or not

 

It's possible. You could get some adjustables, to better center the axle in the fender well. They ain't cheap though..... If there is a machine shop near by, maybe they could make you up a set for cheaper? Or, if you are handy, fab them up yourself.

 

Putting longer control arms logically worth trying to center the axle.

 

That's what I thought, because personally, it looks like it sits a little further back than normal. I didn't know if it would work as a sort of Band-Aid or if it would legitimately work. And I work at a hydraulic/machine/welding shop. I might talk to one of them about it to see if its possible. I really shouldn't have this problem because I received tubular long arms with the lift, and I shouldn't have to pay for more parts

 

These are 3/4" longer than stock so with your lift it will move the axle forward maybe 1/2". I think it would work. http://www.topguncustomz.com/p-16819...x#.VIZ3qWK9KK0

 

The 10" width rims nullified the wheel spacers. You moved it out one way, but then brought it back with the rim width.

Your options are to go down to a 8 or 9" width, or beat the sheet metal back (some ppl do that), or get longer arms to push the axle forward. A 4th option would be body lift.

I've got dual adjustable arms for sale. See link in signature. They blow the crap out of the SJ or any other bushing only control arm. The rod ends are sold, but you can choose amongst a plethora of joints to use like Johnny Joints, Heims, Rod ends, or threaded bushing....etc. You would take your existing lower arms for the 3" and move them to the uppers. Just tossing another option to you.

 

Hey whiteknuckle! I was hoping you would chime in because I coulda swore you made your own control arms. Are they just as strong as the aftermarket tubulars and would they work for a small lift like mine? Also, do you have the springs still for sale? I know I wasn't going to go any bigger, but I think I would like a 5". But I think I would have to get a bunch more crap like brake lines and drop pitman arms

 

And snowboundrmk, it says on the website that it requires a 6" lift? Wouldn't that mean it wouldn't work for me?

 

They are designed to center the axle with a 6" lift. As you go up the greater angle on the arms pulls the axle back towards the cab. So with less lift than they are designed for they will will push the axle forward of the stock position.

 

I think you posted by phone as no signature is shown for you. Plus you would have seen that in my signature I have a link to the control arms for sale. Yes, I also have the 5" springs too. Additionally, HBS 2.5" spacers. Yes I built mine. 2"x2"x0.25" thick square tube.

If you went taller then 3" you currently are at, then yes I would tell you to get an adjustable trackbar and drop pitman arm. Plus you'd want to bring the rear up to match. So more stuff, but if you think you're seriously considering that route, then as they say, "try to do it once". The ramifications (haha) will be mpg and other performance hits... Also, driveshaft and caster issues come into play at +5".

The control arms linked by snow require 6" lift. They don't say how long they are. Most likely a clearance issue with drag link and track bar if you try pushing the axle forward without lifting things out of the way.

As mentioned there are a few ways to tackle your rubbing issue.