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About to Give Up on Warm Air / Plenum

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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 03:16 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Ham Bone
Yep. Then do it again but squirt a little oil in the dulcimer.
what is the dulcimer?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 04:17 PM
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I Meant cylinder
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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It's a lot like the plenum.... Which, since you are going to have the intake off again anyway, you need to re-do. Do NOT use ANY sealer on the plenum gasket. Clean the surfaces, and then use JUST the gasket.

Once the intake is off, just pull the valve covers, rockers, and pushrods, and then the heads. Keep track of what goes where. It's important.

Stock heads are prone to cracking. They are just a crappy design. Deck castings are too thin. Solution for that: New Heads. You *may* be able to repair a cracked head... but, by the time all is said and done, you will spend almost as much as you would had you simply replaced it in the beginning. My take on it is: If you have to pull them anyway, REPLACE THEM. You can get a pair of brand new, BETTER casting heads, shipped to your door, for around 600 bucks. No waiting weeks for the machine shop to turn them around for you...... (if you even HAVE a machine shop within driving distance.....)
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bamabrat
True. Never done it before. what all do I remove to get to them? Everything from the top half of the engine? I guess I should have done this when I was replacing the plenum pan, huh?

I'm curious about your screen name? Are you a Mason?
Bricklayer/stone mason . My family are quite involved in Masons , I just never joined .
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
It's a lot like the plenum.... Which, since you are going to have the intake off again anyway, you need to re-do. Do NOT use ANY sealer on the plenum gasket. Clean the surfaces, and then use JUST the gasket.

Once the intake is off, just pull the valve covers, rockers, and pushrods, and then the heads. Keep track of what goes where. It's important.

Stock heads are prone to cracking. They are just a crappy design. Deck castings are too thin. Solution for that: New Heads. You *may* be able to repair a cracked head... but, by the time all is said and done, you will spend almost as much as you would had you simply replaced it in the beginning. My take on it is: If you have to pull them anyway, REPLACE THEM. You can get a pair of brand new, BETTER casting heads, shipped to your door, for around 600 bucks. No waiting weeks for the machine shop to turn them around for you...... (if you even HAVE a machine shop within driving distance.....)
What is a good brand of heads to buy, and what should I avoid? i've never pulled rockers and pushrods before. What do I look for on those to see if they are worn out or are fine? Regarding the bolts for the heads, I've seen a couple of threads where some guys had a tough time removing them. I don't want to break off a bolt. Any words of wisdom?

I've already spent as much for routine maintenance on this truck as I purchased the whole thing for. Paint, windshield, plenum, rear end, 5th wheel, etc. While I'm deep in this fix, is there anything else I can look at to see if it also needs replacing, or will soon? Anything major that might happen....i don't want to have to remove the intake a 3rd time if I can help it.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 02:20 PM
  #16  
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There are some performance heads in the user classifieds section if you're interested.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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The Odessa/Clearwater stock replacements (new castings) are the least expensive you are going to find. They have a store on EBay.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The Odessa/Clearwater stock replacements (new castings) are the least expensive you are going to find. They have a store on EBay.
Thank you. I can't find them on ebay. We have a shop near me called Cylinder Head Exchange (http://www.yelp.com/biz/cylinder-hea...e-inc-marietta). You take yours in and they give you a set with valve springs, etc. that have already been magna-flux repaired. Cost $300 and comes with a warranty. However, I see all different types on ebay from $180 - $800. I'm not sure how to tell which ones would work for my truck. for example (and don't crucify me on this...I just can't tell a good header from one I need to stay away from, which is why I'm asking for help here)...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-5-2L-5-9L-Durang-Dakota-Exhaust-Header-/181603301704?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a48667948&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pacesetter-H...db4341&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1994-1995-1996-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-Dodge-Ram-1500-2500-3500-Headers-V8-/351034207514?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51bb44ed1a&vxp=mtr
I can't tell what to look for and which to stay away from, or if I should use the cylinder head exchange place. Granted, with a stay-at-home wife and 2 kids under 4 years old, the budget is small but I need to get my truck running well and keep it that way. A new truck is NOT in my future.

Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #19  
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I got shorties off an ebay member before. There was actually a thread comparing the ebay shorties to the pacesetter shorties. Not sure who created it though. It's been awhile.


But I had a cracked weld on the header after a few months. They shipped me a replacement for free and I shipped the cracked one back. I made the mistake of using ebay gaskets the 2nd time and the driver side is leaking.


I think the guy on ebay is ewordstrade or something like that. I'm not 100% sure.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 03:19 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-DODGE-JEEP-MAGNUM-MOPAR-DURANGO-5-2-5-9-OHV-318-360-CYLINDER-HEADS-92-04-/171027563637?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27d2098475
 
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