not gonna lie, i hammer mine in, but i also clean the ears very well and put a little lube on it, and i dont have to hammer them to get them on, just a couple taps and they are in. i could see it if you were taking a bfh to them though lol.

 

[EDIT: Never mind... OP said front U-joints.]

You might consider throwing some pinion wedges in there to rock the axles and so reduce the angularity of the U-joints. At six inches or more of lift, if you do nothing to reduce the angles, your truck is going to eat U-joints and all you're going to get out of using a more expensive part is a lighter wallet.

[EDIT to add:]

It's not so easy on the fronts as just adding wedges. Going to a CV joint will help.

 

To answer your question, get Spicer 5-760x joints which are the OEM part. You'll have to find a Dana/Spicer axle shop or go online. They last me about 5 years a set as a daily driver. These are sealed and last the longest even over greasable ones.

 

If the OPs signature is correct, then he has a half-ton truck with swapped in 3/4 ton axles.

I also would recommend Spicer Joints though.

As said, using a large enough C-Clamp works or using the right combination of sockets and hammers works.

I did this a month ago (D60 front) as it was a good exercise for trail repair occurrence.

 

I have changed out 1000's of cross joints, it comes down to use what works. I have used Bfh, bench vises, sfh, wood, press and ball-joint press and a combination of all of them. The last two, press and ball joint press can make a mess of things very fast, if you're not careful you can bend the ears on the yoke and thats it thats all game over. When removing/installing the clips make damn sure you wear safety glasses, they move and fast and they will **** your eye up.

Me I start with the bj press and go from there. I do not use the press to install the caps, yes I use a hammer and a piece of hardwood, pounding should not be needed just taps. A properly installed cross joint should be free moving (not a stiff hard on) and smooth feeling when moved.

I never use heat like cherry up to get a cross joint out bad just bad. I know GM had used some bs plastic clips you had to melt out but thats not cherrying up the yoke ears.

I always get greaseable cross joints and I grease once a month and after driving in heavy rain or going through deep water/snow. I grease my cross joints with Mercury Marines 2-4-C this grease can handle "extreme" conditions.

As for brands to use as posted Spicer when possible. I have had problems with Precision 316 cross joints stay away from them.

99% of u joint failure is caused by lack of grease or using the wrong grease, next would be misuse or bad install.

Edit: When I do have to install a non-greaseable cross joint I pack them with grease, many don't and that little bit of grease they put in in my op is not enough. I make sure the cross passage is full going both ways.

Before you take apart any ds yoke or front axle to change the u joint mark both parts so they stay in phase when put back together.

 

u can also use a jaw puller, forgot to mention i did that once too

 

Very important point Merc , X2 . When I just did my side axle joints , I got all the clips on , everything back together on the axle , but , still a very firm moving joint . I used a socket and a hammer , and a few taps later it had little to no resistance . Then it was ready for install . I use the same process on all u-joint changes .

 

^^^ Yep it is important to take the tension out.

I did not notice the op's truck has 6-8 inchs lift, op need's a xcase clocking ring to reduce front ds angle.

One of these.