A good front u joint
#11
#12
[EDIT: Never mind... OP said front U-joints.]
You might consider throwing some pinion wedges in there to rock the axles and so reduce the angularity of the U-joints. At six inches or more of lift, if you do nothing to reduce the angles, your truck is going to eat U-joints and all you're going to get out of using a more expensive part is a lighter wallet.
[EDIT to add:]
It's not so easy on the fronts as just adding wedges. Going to a CV joint will help.
You might consider throwing some pinion wedges in there to rock the axles and so reduce the angularity of the U-joints. At six inches or more of lift, if you do nothing to reduce the angles, your truck is going to eat U-joints and all you're going to get out of using a more expensive part is a lighter wallet.
[EDIT to add:]
It's not so easy on the fronts as just adding wedges. Going to a CV joint will help.
Last edited by UnregisteredUser; 12-17-2014 at 01:41 PM. Reason: Ah cain't read!
#13
#14
If the OPs signature is correct, then he has a half-ton truck with swapped in 3/4 ton axles.
I also would recommend Spicer Joints though.
As said, using a large enough C-Clamp works or using the right combination of sockets and hammers works.
I did this a month ago (D60 front) as it was a good exercise for trail repair occurrence.
I also would recommend Spicer Joints though.
As said, using a large enough C-Clamp works or using the right combination of sockets and hammers works.
I did this a month ago (D60 front) as it was a good exercise for trail repair occurrence.
#15
I have changed out 1000's of cross joints, it comes down to use what works. I have used Bfh, bench vises, sfh, wood, press and ball-joint press and a combination of all of them. The last two, press and ball joint press can make a mess of things very fast, if you're not careful you can bend the ears on the yoke and thats it thats all game over. When removing/installing the clips make damn sure you wear safety glasses, they move and fast and they will **** your eye up.
Me I start with the bj press and go from there. I do not use the press to install the caps, yes I use a hammer and a piece of hardwood, pounding should not be needed just taps. A properly installed cross joint should be free moving (not a stiff hard on) and smooth feeling when moved.
I never use heat like cherry up to get a cross joint out bad just bad. I know GM had used some bs plastic clips you had to melt out but thats not cherrying up the yoke ears.
I always get greaseable cross joints and I grease once a month and after driving in heavy rain or going through deep water/snow. I grease my cross joints with Mercury Marines 2-4-C this grease can handle "extreme" conditions.
As for brands to use as posted Spicer when possible. I have had problems with Precision 316 cross joints stay away from them.
99% of u joint failure is caused by lack of grease or using the wrong grease, next would be misuse or bad install.
Edit: When I do have to install a non-greaseable cross joint I pack them with grease, many don't and that little bit of grease they put in in my op is not enough. I make sure the cross passage is full going both ways.
Before you take apart any ds yoke or front axle to change the u joint mark both parts so they stay in phase when put back together.
Me I start with the bj press and go from there. I do not use the press to install the caps, yes I use a hammer and a piece of hardwood, pounding should not be needed just taps. A properly installed cross joint should be free moving (not a stiff hard on) and smooth feeling when moved.
I never use heat like cherry up to get a cross joint out bad just bad. I know GM had used some bs plastic clips you had to melt out but thats not cherrying up the yoke ears.
I always get greaseable cross joints and I grease once a month and after driving in heavy rain or going through deep water/snow. I grease my cross joints with Mercury Marines 2-4-C this grease can handle "extreme" conditions.
As for brands to use as posted Spicer when possible. I have had problems with Precision 316 cross joints stay away from them.
99% of u joint failure is caused by lack of grease or using the wrong grease, next would be misuse or bad install.
Edit: When I do have to install a non-greaseable cross joint I pack them with grease, many don't and that little bit of grease they put in in my op is not enough. I make sure the cross passage is full going both ways.
Before you take apart any ds yoke or front axle to change the u joint mark both parts so they stay in phase when put back together.
Last edited by merc225hp; 12-17-2014 at 06:16 PM.
#17
A properly installed cross joint should be free moving not a stiff hard on and smooth feeling when moved.
#18