$61 + tax via amazon.

Lumped it on with some other stuff we were wanting.

I usually buy all my parts online and throw a retailmenot coupon on the order if I can. But dealers don't usually play that game.

 

well that sucks....wrong part...connectors don't match up. need the mopar 56027871 crankshaft p.sensor for my truck.. at least I only spent an hour and some minutes trying to figure out how to remove the old one. Now I know...20 min job next time.

 

So, I finally took the advice I've read on here dozen times or more and unplugged the coolant temp sensor. .. idle at 13 degrees for 20 minutes. Not a chug, burp it hiccup. Drove this morning and no stalling at the stop signs. Other than getting mopar sensor what else should I look at?

Thanks

 

Coolant temp sensor????

 

yeah. Mopar p/n 5600 4815.

I have no idea what the engine temp is, but I also don't have any hard starts or miss-fires when starting either. Ordering a new one....will be the 3rd (times a charm, eh?)

 

Your engine would actually run with it unplugged? It must have been REALLY cold out, and even then, you should have been running pig rich.......

 

Yeah it's running pretty rich at the moment. But I only travel two miles in the mornings in town driving. Time I get to work it's smelling way sweet. It's I still have issues with the new oem part, I'm guessing ecm is faulty. They have to be programmed when replacing?

 

Flashed with the correct vin, else the ABS, and SRS system whine.

 

What I thought.

So, lets see if I'm understanding the situation...

With the 'non' Mopar ECTS plugged in, I get hard starts, miss-fires on start, stalling at stops and bucking (if I'm moving) @ about 150f'ish, @ full warm-up things run pretty smoothly.

Only have issues at cold and warming up with the sensor plugged in.

With the ects disconnected I have ZERO issues...except for it's pretty much pouring gallons of gas down the cylinders. (as if it didn't suck fuel unabated before.)

Once I replace with a genuine mopar sensor and my problems come back, I'll need to look at replacing the ECM....as long as there is no issues between the connector and the board.

If the ECM does need to be replaced, it has to be flashed with the correct VIN or I trade one problem for a whole host of others.

Sound about right?

Thanks.

 

Yep, looks like you have the idea to me. Good luck, and let us know what you find out.