Replacing centrol arm bushings
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Veteran
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 475
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From: Idaho
Replacing centrol arm bushings
The previous owner of my truck never did anything to take care of it. So far I have had new brakes front and rear, new shocks, new tie rods, and track bar installed. When I get my taxes back I`m going to have the ball joints and hubs replaced.
I have seen several threads here in the last week or so about replacing the control arm bushings. My truck has 198,000 miles on it and the control arm bushing are original, so with that many miles on them, should they be replaced ?. If I did have them replaced and went with urethane control arm bushing, how much harder/harsher (if any) would it make the ride ?.
Your thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
I have seen several threads here in the last week or so about replacing the control arm bushings. My truck has 198,000 miles on it and the control arm bushing are original, so with that many miles on them, should they be replaced ?. If I did have them replaced and went with urethane control arm bushing, how much harder/harsher (if any) would it make the ride ?.
Your thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 297
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i just saw a thread on here about replacing the control arms with ones with grease fittings. more expensive but the route i will be going.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1994-1999-...2500-3500.html
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1994-1999-...2500-3500.html
i just saw a thread on here about replacing the control arms with ones with grease fittings. more expensive but the route i will be going.
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1994-1999-...2500-3500.html
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1994-1999-...2500-3500.html
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 320
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From: up north
Bushings are really easy to install , and remove . The common seizing of the castor bolt is a royal PITA .
I just did my bushings on all 4 arms , well worth it , even with the struggles I had (96 truck/2000frt diff mix matched bushings and bolts that were seized , cut brake line accidentally with the grinder)
Removal is simply hammering back the small dimples on the bushing , then , using a flat head chipping hammer , tap the bushing around the arm on the inside ....hard . Lay arm on side , and one good tap , it will pop right out .
Install . Position bushing , just enough to line up and hold . Using a solid base (I use just a 1' 4x4) smack down the arm as hard as you can directly on the bushing . If not seated fully , do it again . Small adjustments may be needed with the hammer on the other end .
To put back the dimples as the factory had them . Use a 3/8 punch , drive it about 1" deep between the bushing and sleeve , then pry out . Personally , I just tack weld them on the inside . Been doing it like this for years .
If you don't have a seized castor bolt issue , bushings are easy .
I just did my bushings on all 4 arms , well worth it , even with the struggles I had (96 truck/2000frt diff mix matched bushings and bolts that were seized , cut brake line accidentally with the grinder)
Removal is simply hammering back the small dimples on the bushing , then , using a flat head chipping hammer , tap the bushing around the arm on the inside ....hard . Lay arm on side , and one good tap , it will pop right out .
Install . Position bushing , just enough to line up and hold . Using a solid base (I use just a 1' 4x4) smack down the arm as hard as you can directly on the bushing . If not seated fully , do it again . Small adjustments may be needed with the hammer on the other end .
To put back the dimples as the factory had them . Use a 3/8 punch , drive it about 1" deep between the bushing and sleeve , then pry out . Personally , I just tack weld them on the inside . Been doing it like this for years .
If you don't have a seized castor bolt issue , bushings are easy .