I'm 98% ready to drop in my 5.9 to replace the 5.2 . I've watched a few videos and read a little , time to see if I'm missing anything on the best way to approach this given my first Ram engine swap .

First thing I notice is the lack of space to just get in there and start yanking . I've made a lift plate for the throttle body mounting points . I'm assuming I will need to extend the chain on my hoist to clear the "cab forward design"? Usually I have the hook close as possible to the hoist arm . I just don't see that working here .

With that figured out , what's the best way to go for the mounts . I need them for the new engine , and after a few videos , I'm think it's not a bad idea to remove them from the engine all together , once supported with the hoist . Then , lower the engine down (2.5" available) to gain better access to the bell housing bolts , ground straps , sensor plug-ins , etc . Support the trans and pull the engine forward to clear the trans . Sound right ?

She's being dropped in fully assembled . There's no way in hell I am going to try and install those shorty headers after . Had I realized they were that much of a PITA , I would not have cheeped out , I would have done long tubes where bolting on is not an issue . It was a struggle to get everything tightened down while on the stand but managed to get all 1-1.25" SS bolts in there , and plenty tight , double and triple checked . It's really the only way to get at them w/o a nightmare struggle IMO . I don't see room being an issue or having any leaks .

It's a Mopar rebuilt crate engine RCR10461 . Has only 12K (jeep rolled) . Came with the M1 and a polished 50MM TB (I have a 52 in the mail) . I have a 150 amp alternator on there , and underdrive pulleys . I've painted and detailed it , now it's ready to drop in



Built at the Cummins plant


The rest seems straight forward , remove rad and support . Hood I do think I could work around but am going to remove anyways (99% sure) . I've done a couple V8 jeeps and access to bolts is even worse . These were really my only concerns above , any insight you can add from experience will be appreciated

 

Nice looking motor! Wish it was going into my truck.

Yes, remove the hood, it makes pulling it much easier, but both times I pulled the motor on one of these trucks, I left the radiator support in. Next time though, I'll be taking it off.

I ended up using a ratchet strap to hold my transmission up when I had the motor out. yes, pull the engine forward to clear the transmission.

Here is a picture of my dad unbolting the hood of a truck to remove it while I was pulling the motor. This is a truck I parted out.

 

what I did was put a 3 inch body lift in before I installed the new motor, worked out perfect. you could loosen the body bolts remove the front ones and middle ones but leave the rear ones jack up the body and place a 4x4 block of wood between frame and body. Your hands will thank you later and getting to all those pesky bolts on the top and wires will be a breeze. I had learned this trick while replacing my old 85 s10 blazer motor, the manual insisted lifting the body up to clear all areas and reach top trans bolts..Plus since you got the newer intake clearance will be a lot better for your hands.

 

Definitely remove the hood during removal and installation to provide adequate clearance. I found that installing the shorty headers after installing the motor made it easier for me to install the motor. There is plenty of clearance in the engine compartment to install them easily. Lastly, I used an engine tilter with my engine hoist to allow for better engine angle adjustments to more easily bolt-up the transmission.

 

Nice color scheme, like that you painted the brackets and the alternator. Beautiful work.

 

Thank you all for your suggestions and comments . Jollygreengiant , pics are always nice . 2damnyankee , I can see where lifting the cab would be useful but after looking , I don't see an issue with clearance for those bolts , I'm use to jeeps where it's even tighter . I can almost reach these by hand . Atomigdog , I made a lift plate and will be testing it this morning for engine balance . I will rework it if not balanced correctly . I tossed my load leveler years back . Pretty confident I can drop it in with the headers installed already . I sure hope so . I really think taking the motor mounts off and leaving them last to put back on will leave me the wiggle room needed .
Thanks beeker , I was in no hurry so I went a little OCD . I even painted the bolt heads , lol . I'm going to take a day and detail the frame/engine bay when the engine is out . This old girls deserves a little pampering . Not too many in my area in this condition

 

Engine looks nice! No aftermarket valve covers??? I see a lot of people use intake brackets to pull/install motors but i don't like all that weight on 4 5/16 bolts going into aluminum. I use a chain bolted to the heads like in the pic 1997JollyGreenGiant posted. You can also tweak the angle by using a come a long if need be.

 

Yeah I know . I'm thinking get the jeep ones , grind em down , and pick an emblem to fill the void . $250 for a complete set (grommets/caps) Tack 23% exchange right now and another $50 for shipping on something I really can live without for now for the Mopar Magnum set ($125 for jeep?). I will look more into these when the Can dollar gets a little closer to the USD . I think this time last year it was par .

I'm not a huge fan if it myself , I won't lie . But I did look into it . This was good reading but the link to the testing no workie . 9000lbs the plate broke and the screws were still able to be unscrewed from the aluminum manifold one guy said per the test . That's more than I'm lifting , lol . http://www.classracer.com/classforum...ead.php?p=9222

 

Thx 4 sharing the pics. I will add to keep the lifting chain as short as you can..crate motor would that be the 300hp or 380hp mperformance crate? Mp only offered two versions.

 

Unfortunately , I don't have or know the specs on this engine other that the 2 stickers that were on it . I may contact that Cummins plant and see if any info is available on that number . I was just assuming it's a standard .10 over rebuild . 300hp as a base would be awesome , 380 would be like winning the lotto , lol .
These are the only links I can find searching that #
http://www.newdodgeparts.com/OEMPart.../RCR10461.html
http://www.hendrickmoparparts.com/OE.../RCR10461.html

As for the pics , glad you enjoy them . I love seeing pics in posts so I use them whenever I can . Better entertainment value . Photobucket works great with direct image linking .