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Front Brakes Dragging

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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:05 AM
  #11  
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You've pretty much gone thru everything...... but, what about the pedal itself? Does it move easily on it's pivot? Nothing binding/getting in the way inside??
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:23 AM
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Just checked the pedal. It's good. This is getting very old. been going on almost a year. Almost time to replace the front pads again. This is hard on my mileage too. If I stay on this it will be resolved. How hard can this be, it's just brakes!!!
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 11:15 AM
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Can you make 'em stick in the driveway? Up on jack stands??
 
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Old May 20, 2015 | 09:52 AM
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Do the calipers move freely on the bracket?
X2! The sliders need to be greased periodically to keep them from sticking. Was this done when the parts where replaced?
When the calipers where put on where the sliders/pins greased??? We don't know if this could be the issue or something else(no return comments). These need to be greased every time you do brakes(if not sooner). If it's dragging take a good look and at the caliper and see if it is not releasing or sticking caliper/other. Need more details to go on other than it's wearing out pads.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 10:07 AM
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I've had the truck on jack stands and have created the condition where the pressure does not release. The pressure is held by the combination/proportioning valve, breaking the connection between the proportioning valve and the master cylinder produces a small slow leak, breaking the connection below the proportioning valve produces a tablespoon sized squirt. The proportioning valve indicator pin protrudes about half its travel when the condition happens. The indicator pin has to be held forward by the rear piston of the proportioning valve which is forced forward by the rear brake fluid. While the front piston is held forward the front brake fluid can return to the master cylinder through the built in check valve of the forward piston.


The proportioning valve is no longer manufactured. I've purchased a salvage proportioning valve, but after disassembly it looked to be in worse condition than mine. I reassembled the original valve block using the pistons from the salvage valve with no change in symptoms. Today I'm replacing the valve body with the salvage pistons.


Wish me luck.

 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 10:41 AM
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(don't recall if I have asked this in this thread.....) How does the pedal feel? Do you get good firm pedal right away? Excessive travel before something happens? Brake lite coming on at all?

Wonder if there isn't still some air in the front lines giving you fits.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 12:43 PM
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The indicator pin has to be held forward by the rear piston of the proportioning valve which is forced forward by the rear brake fluid.
Sound like there it's a pressure issue.Too much on one side an not enough on the other.
I've replaced the vacuum booster, master cylinder, both calipers and pads, both flexible front brake lines, rear wheel cylinders and shoes and reconditioned the proportioning valve. I have NOT replace the RWAL. This problem is intermittent, when it occurs the indicator pin protrudes from the proportioning valve about 1/2 of its travel, not enough to turn on the ABS warning indicator.
If there was no difference with all the parts that where replaced i would tend to think there is an issue with the abs or abs valve body.
 
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