Fender Flares
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 24,686
Likes: 21
From: South Georgia/East Florida
I had a buddy had an aluminum wheel spacer fail on a curved exit ramp off I75 in Atlanta years ago, watched his tire and wheel pass his truck.
If you want that wider stance, do it the right way and get a negative offset wheel. Thisaway you can also get a 9" wide wheel which will accommodate that 12.5" tire better...
If you want that wider stance, do it the right way and get a negative offset wheel. Thisaway you can also get a 9" wide wheel which will accommodate that 12.5" tire better...
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,439
Likes: 73
From: S. Florida
The rule of thumb use to be a max of 2" difference between tread width and rim width.
Tread wider than the rim for sidewall protection and flotation on sand (off-roading), but this gives sloppy handling.
Rim wider than the tread for tight handling, but vulnerable sidewalls and poor flotation on sand.
Anything beyond 2" difference and you risk popping the bead.
Tread wider than the rim for sidewall protection and flotation on sand (off-roading), but this gives sloppy handling.
Rim wider than the tread for tight handling, but vulnerable sidewalls and poor flotation on sand.
Anything beyond 2" difference and you risk popping the bead.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 24,686
Likes: 21
From: South Georgia/East Florida
The rule of thumb use to be a max of 2" difference between tread width and rim width.
Tread wider than the rim for sidewall protection and flotation on sand (off-roading), but this gives sloppy handling.
Rim wider than the tread for tight handling, but vulnerable sidewalls and poor flotation on sand.
Anything beyond 2" difference and you risk popping the bead.
Tread wider than the rim for sidewall protection and flotation on sand (off-roading), but this gives sloppy handling.
Rim wider than the tread for tight handling, but vulnerable sidewalls and poor flotation on sand.
Anything beyond 2" difference and you risk popping the bead.
I've aired down pretty low hunting in the swamps with 35x12.5 on 9s and never lost a bead...
i had 2.5 inch hub spacers for about 9k miles. in that time i ruined 2 hub bearins and upper and lower ball joints. i ended up getting pro comp 16x10 wheels with -25 backspace. they look amazing and if that wheel poke is what you are going for that is what i recommend. speaking as someone who had wheelspacers, i never had a wheel fall off or anything, but i did have to replace some parts they were for sure to blame. hope this helps
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Professional
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: PA
I was with ya for awhile big green but you then totally lost me at the end? So are you saying I just need to get different wheels with the offsets you described? And that'll move my wheels out? So right now i have the 8 lug stock chrome rims with plastic centers. If you were going 35's or larger would you switch to a 17 or 18" rim and how about the width? any suggestions on good places to purchase rims
Professional
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 185
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From: Newton grove nc
Get wider wheels it don't matter 17 or 18 it's how wide it is if u get wheels with a diff backspace ( from the inside of the rear of hub to the outside of the wheel ) if u go with less backspace it moves the wheel out from under your truck more u can't go crazy with it u will be back with the same problem if it was me I would stay with 17s and a backspace
around 4 to 4.5 and min of 8 wide up to 9 or 10 wide get on line and search wheels by size
e bay American racing
around 4 to 4.5 and min of 8 wide up to 9 or 10 wide get on line and search wheels by size
e bay American racing
Last edited by BigGreenRam; Sep 25, 2015 at 05:11 PM.
Professional
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 201
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From: Texas