it has done this 3 times now, normally i just come to a stop put it in park and restart it. this time i wasnt so lucky, probably because this time is was right in the middle lane at the light. i tried to start it back up and it just kept cranking and cranking. the digital odometer at one point flashed to no bus. i finally popped the hood wiggled the TPS sensor and pressed in all three connectors on PCM or ECM whatever it is. got back in and it fired up. not sure if it was a coincidence or not when i got home i parked let it run and tried to get it to die buy tugging and wiggling all of the same wires and connectors i touched to get it running again but it wouldn't die. Is the no bus a sign sure sign of something failing? im thinking crank sensor maybe?

 

Also i get it to almost die when its idling in park by giving it a quick tap on the gas on to my left around the JB i hear what sounds to be a relay clicking. Im at a loss here guys i dont want to buy a 350 PCM if its not that but i cant find anything else. from what i have read a no bus and random stalling is PCM failure.

 

Possibly PCM getting not, and some poor solder joints failing... as the PCM cools, they make contact again, and everyone is happy......

Get it to fail, then cool it off. (Water?) See if it starts back up.

 

Could try heating up the pcm with a blow dryer.

 

Think that would get it hot enough?

 

If not you could use a heat gun.

 

So i drove this thing from long beach CA to riverside CA and back all at once on a 95 degree day and it wouldn't fail. (Thats a total of about 100 miles) Then today, a 75 degree day, after driving about 20 min. it dies, gives NO BUS and wont restart. Just like last time i tried turning it off and back on a few times, didnt work. and also like last time when i pop the hood and press in and wiggle all three connectors and get back in it fire up. All connectors are snug at all times, pins are straight, no corrosion no loose connections no chew marks on harness. If it is the PCM itself everyone says it happens when it is hot because the solder loosens up inside and you get loose connections and bam it looses until it cools down and hardens back up. How do you explain it happening today than? i have been drving with my scan tool hooked up and when i drove all the way to riverside the intake temp was steadliy at 140-170. Today it was at 118. i just know because you cant really test it ill buy a new one and it wont be fixed.

 

that's a weird one alright...

What's missing when it won't start? Hear the fuel pump prime? Got spark?