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Moog gripe-sway bar links made wrong

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Old Oct 1, 2015 | 01:19 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Some folks use drop brackets for the sway bar. I don't really care for that solution though.... I have also seen folks simply push the swaybar UP, so the links go DOWN into the bracket on the axle. Stock length would work fine in that situation.

We tell people to stay away from those brackets, and i was never really fond of them either. For mine instead of pushing the sway bar up i pulled it down and works great and that was with the ones for the 2" leveling kit
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:28 AM
  #12  
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Thanks for the advice. Now it's between Spohn and Maxx....
 
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Old Oct 2, 2015 | 11:58 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
Thanks for the advice. Now it's between Spohn and Maxx....
Not trying to promote but I was very impressed with the difference the spohn ones made on my buddys ram 1500. it was like driving a new truck compared to what it was with the factory ones that were busted to hell..I didn't notice a big difference in mine but my 2500 has more issues then the end links, it needs a track bar then I should be set!


Ive never had the Maxx so I couldn't say which performed better
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 01:21 AM
  #14  
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I ordered the MaxxLinks 1223L ends for my 1500 and received them today. They look and feel very heavy duty. I love the tough bushings on both ends and the hardware is top grade. I went with these because of the big name and initial quality. The Spohn doesn't have a tapered bolt nor bushings on the joint. Hence my final decision. They were also the same price. I'm sure if anybody's on the fence between these two, either will be an upgrade over stock. If the weather is dry tomorrow, they're goin' in! Also got free shipping, color instructions with torque specs and several stickers.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2015 | 05:42 PM
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Well, it's been raining all day so I decided to just put them on anyway. Old ones were a pain as they were a bit rusted but I finally got the new ones in. Was too cold, wet and dirty to take it for a drive but glad I got them done. Like I stated, good instructions with torque specs so I'm looking forward to how they perform.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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Impressions: at first I didn't notice any difference. But on the 2nd and 3rd drives I sure did! Man, the steering is MUCH tighter and it turns immediately when you want the truck to move. It didn't remove all the play in my steering but when I move the wheel, it responds much smoother and quicker. Also tighter over bumps, and stays in the lane much better. Less wandering. Makes me wonder how many poor souls have thrown $$$ at steering parts, only to neglect a mere $85 upgrade....
 
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Old Dec 24, 2015 | 01:21 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ComputerJoe
Ordered two k7280 links from Advanced Auto for $66 each. First I got one that was already opened and its threads were fouled. Then replacement link was missing the grommets. I finally got two good links and was able to try and install them. Putting the sway bar back together I find Moog made the taper on the ball joint end too big! The castle nut will not even tighten enough to get the cotter pin in. Worse than that the rubber boot is more than 1/2" away from the frame bracket the taper fits in so it will not hold grease.
I gotta agree with the Moog criticism. I also bought Moogs from Advance for my Dakota and found that some of the bushings were missing. Took em back and they couldn't find a box with a complete set... seems people like to buy them, steal parts, then return em. Obviously not Moog's fault, but I'm not done yet....

I was able to get a complete set from Amazon, installed them and pumped them fulla grease. A week later, I checked them and found that the grease nipple had fallen out of one and was loose on the other. It seems the right angle nipples would contact the control arm whenever the link would rotate back and forth. No amount of positioning and tightening seemed to work and eventually, the hole stripped on one link. Moog eventually sent me straight nipples (I had bought some before that, but they were the wrong thread) but even those fell out due to the now damaged threads. I ended up tack welding them in a few weeks ago, when I replaced the ball joints.
 
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