Hey there, have couple questions. I'll start from the beginning. I have a 1500 with 2500 axles. When I picked the axle up from the junk yard the driver side rotor looked brand new and the passenger rotor was destroyed(just like the pic below) .Anyways I replaced the hub,brakes,calipers,rotors.when I got the axle there were 2 hub bolts missing anyways so I bought new ones. I took my truck to go get aligned, they were able to get it to track. They did urge me however to change the ball joints.Anyways I've had the brand new brakes for about 1 year now. I ended up breaking a tie rod and snapped a brake line on the driver side about a couple months ago but never really went back to get the alignment fixed. Just recently I let my friend borrow the truck and the Rotor started looking a little ruff that was a month ago. So I drove my truck tonight only to hear a thud clank and only being able to stop using my driver side brakes. There's the aftermath in the pictures. I'm not sure what happened did a caliber sieze? Brake line flare out? All the hub bolts are tight and still intact. Could it be the ball joints? And another thing. Should I just go ahead and replace the rotors on both side or just passenger? Should I replace the hubs to or is it not worth it? Thanks

 

Pass side rotor





Driver side





More

Sorry had to double post, phone on the forum is new to me. There's the carnage. I didn't expect the Rotor to go out so fast.I did notice braking performance issues earlier in the day and at one time it seemed like one if the brakes were sticking when I was towing a trailer. I really couldn't tell cause there was a ton of wind today however. Maybe I should just go ahead and replace everything? Might be worth me just going and getting a new front axle? Getting tired of this one and all the issues. Do you figure I should replace the hubs and both rotors? Thanks again

 

That isn't something that happens overnight.... It takes quite some time to grind the rotor away to that extent. My guess is the soft line has collapsed internally, making it essentially a one-way valve. You step on the brake, the caliper grabs, and never fully releases.

Its easy to test. Pull the tire, pump up the brakes, and you turn the rotor? (my guess would be "no".) crack open the bleeder on that caliper, will the rotor turn now? If it does, replace the soft line, if it doesn't, replace the caliper AND the line. Replace the rotor/pads no matter what. Other rotor looks fine, no need to replace.

 

The sliders maybe seized also not letting the caliper move. Always grease them when you do the brakes.

 

okay cool Ill just go ahead and replace all the brakes on that side including the brake line. Thats crazy it was performing well and then all of sudden they looked scruffy one day. When I do the brakes on that side again, should I just go ahead and replace the hub bearing to? Or is it possible just to be real careful when hitting out the lug nuts. I hear the hubs are like very precious, Ive always changed out hubs when I changed the brakes. The hubs are also only a year old. Jacked the truck up and there isn't any wheel movement. Of course the driver side looks slight camber because of the ball joint other then I dont see any problems. Ball joints shouldn't be to bad. Also have to take out the driver side axle shaft and replace the u joint.

 

You can re-use the hub/bearing. Shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you torque the axle nut properly when you put it back together. That's the most important step.

 

And don't forge to use anti seize. I have two non greasable spicer u joints for it if you are interested.