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Tips Replacing Steering Gear?

Old Mar 31, 2016 | 11:23 AM
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Default Tips Replacing Steering Gear?

Did a search, found some recommendations for the RedHead steering gear, bought one.

2001 2500 4x4 w/V10. Engine off, steering wheel excursion about 45* with no movement coming out of the box. All tie rod ends replaced couple of weeks ago. Watch as wife gently turned the wheel. It has to be the gear. Oh well.

Any surprises I should expect? I am going to try and save my new tie rod end on the Pitman Arm using a gear puller before I go to picklefork. Other than that, three bolts, two hydraulic fittings and removal of the input. That is what I am concerned with, how hard is it to get that off? Does not look like much room to work with that.

Thanks for any tips or tricks that'll make this less challenging.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 11:35 AM
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Chemicals are your friend. Soak things really good with PB Blaster before trying to separate them.

if your new box didn't come with a pitman arm, try and just separate the arm from the old box, and leave the rest of the joints alone.

Make sure the steering column is locked before disconnecting from the steering box. The clockspring will only turn so far before it breaks, and you don't want to tempt fate.

May want to try and flush the lines/pump before introducing the old fluid to the new box.... Keep in mind, the pump will empty itself in less than 2 seconds with the lines disconnected from the steering gear.

New pump too? If you have the scratch, not really a bad idea with new box. I think I paid about 60 bucks for mine. (mine failed......)
 
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Chemicals are your friend. Soak things really good with PB Blaster before trying to separate them.

if your new box didn't come with a pitman arm, try and just separate the arm from the old box, and leave the rest of the joints alone.

Make sure the steering column is locked before disconnecting from the steering box. The clockspring will only turn so far before it breaks, and you don't want to tempt fate.

May want to try and flush the lines/pump before introducing the old fluid to the new box.... Keep in mind, the pump will empty itself in less than 2 seconds with the lines disconnected from the steering gear.

New pump too? If you have the scratch, not really a bad idea with new box. I think I paid about 60 bucks for mine. (mine failed......)
All the above is good info! The only thing I would add is that removing the fan / fan shroud definitely helps, at least it did with my 5.9 Magnum engine. I'm not sure how all that is set up with the V10, but if it's similar then it will make your time much less stressful. I actually had room to get my hands in there and on everything with ease.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 12:01 PM
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Thanks for the tips. Didn't think about the pump, let me check on the cost.

Shroud...now why didn't I think about that?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:41 PM
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Pump will also need a pulley puller kit that you can rent from stores. This removes the pulley so the pump can come off the bracket. Pretty dumb design but it is what it is. Also get a pump with a new reservoir unless you don't mind replacing that and the O-ring.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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If there is a whining sound during steering, then that is good cause for replacing pump. If not, leave it. You'll put new fluid in anyways from swapping gear boxes. Have a 5 gal bucket handy when you detach the lines to drain. Good timing keeps fluid off of you.

If you do replace the pump, I suggest removing entire bracket from engine. This is only if you have a good way to hold the assembly in order to remove the pulley.

Be mindful of new O-ring for the lines, which usually accompanies the gearbox.
 
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