Steering Issues And Correct Parts.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
That doesn't look bad at all. Very little rust and things look solid. But I have some concerns:
First off, that is a 97 model, not 98. (Mirrors, body trim, dash, and sway bar links give it away).
Good catch.
Secondly, that looks like a 3" lift, not 5". You can stuff 35s on 15s with just a 3". The control arms are replaced and there's just an AAL out back which looks like my setup. Not sure why dual shocks up front. I also don't see a track bar bracket which is required for 5".
I think the back is stock, at least compared to my 97 1500 springs. Looks like it just has a leveling kit up front.
The alignment looks fine. How are your tires wearing? Start with a new track bar (moog will get you by for now) and the other TREs they told you about. Then get under and have your GF slowly turn the wheel back and forth to check for other loose parts. Then align it. If the steering gear has play, replace that too. I didn't notice a bent axle but the pics didn't show that. How about a pic from the front dead on?
If you went through bearings in less than 100k then they weren't installed properly. Hubs should be torqued to 175 lb/ft and should be Timken only. Rock auto has them cheap.
First off, that is a 97 model, not 98. (Mirrors, body trim, dash, and sway bar links give it away).
Good catch.
Secondly, that looks like a 3" lift, not 5". You can stuff 35s on 15s with just a 3". The control arms are replaced and there's just an AAL out back which looks like my setup. Not sure why dual shocks up front. I also don't see a track bar bracket which is required for 5".
I think the back is stock, at least compared to my 97 1500 springs. Looks like it just has a leveling kit up front.
The alignment looks fine. How are your tires wearing? Start with a new track bar (moog will get you by for now) and the other TREs they told you about. Then get under and have your GF slowly turn the wheel back and forth to check for other loose parts. Then align it. If the steering gear has play, replace that too. I didn't notice a bent axle but the pics didn't show that. How about a pic from the front dead on?
If you went through bearings in less than 100k then they weren't installed properly. Hubs should be torqued to 175 lb/ft and should be Timken only. Rock auto has them cheap.
Champion
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 109
From:
The rear pack definitely has a shorty AAL pictured at the bottom of the main three leaves. These trucks shipped with either 3 or 4 leaves but never a shorty. Also, it rusts worse than factory leaves (my Skyjacker long AAL does the same). Also, more than a level puck up front. That is a lifting block of at least 3 in. They were all the rage but I went with new springs to avoid the big plastic donut look.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
The rear pack definitely has a shorty AAL pictured at the bottom of the main three leaves. These trucks shipped with either 3 or 4 leaves but never a shorty. Also, it rusts worse than factory leaves (my Skyjacker long AAL does the same). Also, more than a level puck up front. That is a lifting block of at least 3 in. They were all the rage but I went with new springs to avoid the big plastic donut look.
These are pictures of the stock leafs from my 97 1500. I have two 97 1500s, one for parts and one that was running. Both had identical springs. This is also why I say the back looks stock, but I might be missing something in the OPs picture.
Champion
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 109
From:
Your packs look like mine did before my AAL. In the OP's fourth picture you can see the very rusty orange shorty AAL in his pack. It is also much thinner than any of the stock leaves. That's his added leaf. Also the crazy long u-bolts gave it away as well.
Captain
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 586
Likes: 17
From: Nevada
You are correct. I don't know if the pictures were updated or I'm just that blind (probably the latter) but I couldn't see the AAL at all before.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Seattle,wa
ok so this is what i replace
i went ahead and replaced both right and left inner and outter tie rods,track bar,and steering damper. all new even the sleeves for the tie rods. i did it my self and its my first time and i realized my first mistake was not centering my steering wheel . i gotta say other than the front axle being off center to the right a bit and it being way out of alignment it drives much better than it did before. it doesnt drift like a drunk anymore. however seems like front sits a little lower than before and i feels like it kinda bounces a bit if im at a light and let off the brake and hit the brake kinda hard. oh the tires still sit funny.
here is couple pics of under when i had everything apart.
here is couple pics of under when i had everything apart.
Champion
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 109
From:
The axle is off because of the lift. Get a 3" bracket from Skyjacker or the like to bring it back. Much cheaper than the alternative.
Ride height shouldn't change unless you adjusted control arms but I don't think you have those either.
What brand tie rods did you go with? Did you consider doing the 98 HD setup?
Oh, and good job! Now do a 0 toe alignment and you should be good. Google "diy jeep alignment" and there's plenty of good sites. Same concept for our front ends.
Ride height shouldn't change unless you adjusted control arms but I don't think you have those either.
What brand tie rods did you go with? Did you consider doing the 98 HD setup?
Oh, and good job! Now do a 0 toe alignment and you should be good. Google "diy jeep alignment" and there's plenty of good sites. Same concept for our front ends.
